This is not a new subject, but since this is the second time for me I thought I would post some information for you.
The motherboard on my editing computer refused to post which is the first sign of blown capacitors. This happened on the computer I am typing this on two years ago and I replaced the blown electrolytic caps. It has been working perfectly ever since.
The average individual tosses the motherboard or the entire computer when this happens which is foolish because it is so easy to replace them if you have reasonable soldering skills. There were a few years worth of motherboards that suffered from poor quality capacitors from Taiwan. And it wasn't just a few companies. It was most of them at one point or another. The bad caps came from Capxcon, Chhsi, Jpcon,Wendell, Jackon, Fuhjyuu, Fuh Yin, Tocon, Stone, Skywell, Raycon, Teapo, Supacon, Tayeh, Yec, Partsnic, JunFu, GSC, G-Luxin, Choyo, CTC, and many others. Newer motherboards have improved in that respect.
Unfortunately power supplies have been rife with bad caps for several years and for PSUs the problem is getting worse instead of better. And it is not just low grade PSUs like Deer. Antec has had a notoriously high failure rate even in their "True Power" series because of mainly Fuhjyuu and Teapo caps.
It is very easy to tell if a cap is blown by looking at the top of the elctrolytic cap at the vent which looks like a cross. Bad caps are bulged (domed) often with brown ooze coming out of them.
They should be replaced with low-Esr caps of which the Panasonic FC and FM caps seem most readily available. The height is what will be different on most of them. The diameter should be matched exactly so they go into the holes in the PCB easily. The blown caps are usually 8mm or 10mm in diameter, but the 11.5mm height of many of them will have to be substituted with 16-20mm caps because that is what is most readily available in low-Esr capacitors.
Most of the bad caps are 6.3v, but 10v is often a better substitute. You can go as high as 16 volts without a problem. Just don't change the actual capacitance value unless you know what you are doing. You have to make sure the longer caps won't interfere with anything. Most of the time it won't and you can lay caps down on their side if there is room by bending the wires at right angles.
Here are the low-Esr caps which are reliable and the last listed have the VERY lowest ESR (not absolutely necessary to choose the very lowest by the way).
Panasonic FC and FM
Nichicon HV, HM, HN, HZ
Rubycon ZL, ZLG, MCZ
Sanyo WX, WG
United Chemicon KZE, KZH, KZG, KZJ
All are Japanese.
As I said the Panasonic FC and FM are the easiest to find in the sizes you may need. I replaced the two that were blown on my editing computer with Panasonic FM caps that I bought at Digikey.
Not to scare you but you do have to be careful when removing them because motherboards have up to six layers with copper traces on each layer. The components are soldered inside a tiny tube whose edges touch the copper on the different layers. The tube must not be disturbed or rotated when you unsolder the cap (usually happens from overheating). Soldering in the replacement is a piece of cake (they DO have a polarity though which is plainly marked).
If you need help with this at any time feel free to e-mail me or post it on the forums.
Regards,
John
The motherboard on my editing computer refused to post which is the first sign of blown capacitors. This happened on the computer I am typing this on two years ago and I replaced the blown electrolytic caps. It has been working perfectly ever since.
The average individual tosses the motherboard or the entire computer when this happens which is foolish because it is so easy to replace them if you have reasonable soldering skills. There were a few years worth of motherboards that suffered from poor quality capacitors from Taiwan. And it wasn't just a few companies. It was most of them at one point or another. The bad caps came from Capxcon, Chhsi, Jpcon,Wendell, Jackon, Fuhjyuu, Fuh Yin, Tocon, Stone, Skywell, Raycon, Teapo, Supacon, Tayeh, Yec, Partsnic, JunFu, GSC, G-Luxin, Choyo, CTC, and many others. Newer motherboards have improved in that respect.
Unfortunately power supplies have been rife with bad caps for several years and for PSUs the problem is getting worse instead of better. And it is not just low grade PSUs like Deer. Antec has had a notoriously high failure rate even in their "True Power" series because of mainly Fuhjyuu and Teapo caps.
It is very easy to tell if a cap is blown by looking at the top of the elctrolytic cap at the vent which looks like a cross. Bad caps are bulged (domed) often with brown ooze coming out of them.
They should be replaced with low-Esr caps of which the Panasonic FC and FM caps seem most readily available. The height is what will be different on most of them. The diameter should be matched exactly so they go into the holes in the PCB easily. The blown caps are usually 8mm or 10mm in diameter, but the 11.5mm height of many of them will have to be substituted with 16-20mm caps because that is what is most readily available in low-Esr capacitors.
Most of the bad caps are 6.3v, but 10v is often a better substitute. You can go as high as 16 volts without a problem. Just don't change the actual capacitance value unless you know what you are doing. You have to make sure the longer caps won't interfere with anything. Most of the time it won't and you can lay caps down on their side if there is room by bending the wires at right angles.
Here are the low-Esr caps which are reliable and the last listed have the VERY lowest ESR (not absolutely necessary to choose the very lowest by the way).
Panasonic FC and FM
Nichicon HV, HM, HN, HZ
Rubycon ZL, ZLG, MCZ
Sanyo WX, WG
United Chemicon KZE, KZH, KZG, KZJ
All are Japanese.
As I said the Panasonic FC and FM are the easiest to find in the sizes you may need. I replaced the two that were blown on my editing computer with Panasonic FM caps that I bought at Digikey.
Not to scare you but you do have to be careful when removing them because motherboards have up to six layers with copper traces on each layer. The components are soldered inside a tiny tube whose edges touch the copper on the different layers. The tube must not be disturbed or rotated when you unsolder the cap (usually happens from overheating). Soldering in the replacement is a piece of cake (they DO have a polarity though which is plainly marked).
If you need help with this at any time feel free to e-mail me or post it on the forums.
Regards,
John