You might try "Abby" on NCIS. She seems to have mastered the world of "Quantum Mechanics". Otherwise I know of nothing that will help a lot but the FX's might have some effect. Only other way is to make it purposely out of focus like a dream sequence.
JJK

You are perfectly right: Except for NCIS Abby (she was too busy today doing other miracles) or the Hubble telescope guys (unreachable when you need them) there was nothing to do.

So much for having a small and reliable POS camera - and then change to a real, nice DSLR for a big family occasion - - without noticing that this DSLR does not have continuous auto-focus for video :- )

"this DSLR does not have continuous auto-focus for video

Check again, as it probably does have a setting for that, although that in itself can be a double edged sword...My D7000 (Nikon) was used to shoot some ballet class clips for use in a school promo, and I didn't notice until I got home, that it was constantly going in and out of focus every time something bright would pop up on the screen, like a dancer in light colored clothing going through the sunlight in the background. In addition, i was treated to the annoying sound of the servos searching for a focus throughout. Wading through the hundreds of settings direction and then trying to remember which you want for what is a PIA with these cameras, sometimes needing to go into the menu and sub-menus to get to where you need to be.

You really have to be constantly aware of focus with a DSLR. The only way to do it is either totally manually, or using a half shutter button press as a "push to auto focus" function. The continuous auto focus on the Nikons is pretty much unusable.

The way to do it to pick your subject by moving the little red box around the screen, then half pressing the shutter button to lock focus onto that point. If your subject is moving, you have to dial in a deeper depth of field with a small aperture since the focus won't actually be changing in the shot. When I'm outside shooting some sort of action, I go all the way wide, dial in a small aperture and turn the focus all the way to infinity, then lock down the exposure since any exposure changes are going to happen in noticeable jumps. The back focus on DSLR lenses is also way off so forget about zooming while shooting video.

Really, it's sort of a pain shooting with a DSLR. If I wasn't so in love with the picture from the larger sensor...

The DSLR game has just changed - check out the BlackMagicDesign cinema camera at $2,900.

http://www.blackmagic-design.com/products/blackmagiccinemacamera/

Can't wait to get my hands on one!
David

The "unsharp masking" FX may be worth a try. Set "threshold" above zero to avoid sharpening noise and experiment with amount and radius. The latter controls how many pixels around a point are considered in doing the computation. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsharp_maskingunsharp masking[/link]. Too much sharpening introduces objectionable artefacts.

Right now with everything changing so fast, I'm not really interested in the "latest and greatest" when it costs that much money. I would rather commit to a DSLR where I can keep my lenses as the body technology evolves. One thing I'm really curious about right now is whether or not the new anti-aliasing algorithms from the Nikon D4 and D800 are also in the new inexpensive D3200. I know that it has manual audio levels, VU meters and something like 24 megapixels. My biggest complaint with my D5100 is the aliasing and moiré (which ranges from being a non-issue in many shots and an absolute show stopper in others). Fix that and I'm happy with DSLRs. I have a feeling that that fix is right around this generation and I expect it to find it's way down to the inexpensive models cameras very soon.

You might also like to try the sharpen pre-set in Convolution Kernel.

I have very occasionally just about got away with using two of the three (Sharpen, Unshaprp Mask and Convolution Kernel) together but you have to watch out for pixielation etc.

I have also read in a forum, perhaps even this one, that its sometimes worth duplicating the event and placing it on the track above where you can apply whatever tricks you like and then use the transparency control to see how the two frames play together.

Good Luck,

Richard

Look at the following thread about half way down where I posted some settings for the Vegas convolution kernel filter, one of them enhances focus and another enhances detail. See if either of these might help.

http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/forums/ShowMessage.asp?ForumID=4&MessageID=726138