Correcting faded Kodachrome film transfers in Vegas

bunyabunya wrote on 2/13/2004, 9:27 AM
I have about 60 reels of 8mm and 16mm home movies that show a wide range of fading and color problems. I took a few frames out and did autocorrect for color and contrast in Adobe Elements, which worked wonders, but Vegas looks like it can do an even better job, since it gives much more control, especially with Color Curves, which looks amazing. But I am not skilled enough yet to accomplish anything like that yet in Vegas. Can anyone suggest a good plan here? Learn how to use Color Curves, with BillyBoy tutorial, and other tools. Can I then save a preset for use with other clips that show similar problems?

Comments

BrianStanding wrote on 2/13/2004, 11:30 AM
You've already suggested your best plan. Learn how to use the color curves tool (probably my single most-used Vegas effect). Billy Boy's tutorials are a great place to start. You'll probably also have to experiment a bit. Just start twisting curves and see the results you like.

And yes, you can save presets once you've got things to your liking. I would also download jetdv's Film Look plug-in (http://www.jetdv.com/scripts/RC3_VegasFilmLooks.exe

). That plug-in has some Color Curves presets that may be good starting points.

johnmeyer wrote on 2/13/2004, 12:28 PM
I think he's already GOT film. I think the film look plug in is for making native videotape look more like film.
BrianStanding wrote on 2/15/2004, 5:45 AM
I'm not suggesting he use the video to film pulldown. I agree that would be pointless for footage that originated on film. However, some of the curves and levels presets in the Film Look plugin do a good job of increasing saturation, deepening blacks, etc. I would think this would help with restoring washed-out film, as well.

The presets are also just a good place to start looking at Color Curves.
BillyBoy wrote on 2/15/2004, 7:44 AM
You can save custom color curves you make and that new curve gets added to the preset list from which you can use it again just like the other presets. I've made dozens. A good starting point is varations on the "S" curve.

1. Drag and drop the filter on the timeline over the event you're adjusting.

2. In the little slot above the color corrector workspace where it says preset give the filter you just made a name. Click on the floopy icon to the right to save it.

3. Click on the tiny arrow that points down to see all the preset and you should see the one you just made added to the list.

3. Go back to the video FX tab, select, your preset should be there will all the others. You can now drag and drop the custom filter you just made like any of the built-in presets.
bunyabunya wrote on 2/22/2004, 10:53 AM
BillyBoy's tutorials were great, have now dived in, and hit a snag right off the bat: how to get a white shirt to look white in Vegas? Have tried everything, color curves, threshold, you name it. I know it can be done, since I have a frame from the same clip that looks beautiful done with autocorrect feature in Adobe Elements. There always seems to be a pinkish or yellowish cast in the Vegas image. I did scopes on both, and the Elements image has less red, more blue, and much broader distribution for RBG.
John_Cline wrote on 2/22/2004, 12:23 PM
You might try the white balance trick I described in this thread:

White Balance Trick

John
bunyabunya wrote on 2/22/2004, 1:58 PM
Tried it but in my hands Vegas can not touch Adobe Elements for color correction--big disappointment!
RalphM wrote on 2/22/2004, 2:37 PM
Having transferred a lot of 8mm and silent 16, the only problem I see in using presets is that the color "profiles" of these amateur films changes with almost every reel that was run through the camera. Improper use of filters, improper developing, and the effects of age all contribute to color problems.

While it may be too late to suggest it, if you have a camcorder with manual controls, you can work issues like white balance during capture.

Also remember that video has about half the contrast range of film, so it can be difficult to capture details of lighting faithfully.
bunyabunya wrote on 2/22/2004, 3:41 PM
Thanks, I have been adjusting the exposure on my GL2 with the exposure lock button, going all over the place as the film moves thru, using the 95 IRE zebra setting, keeping it one stop below the zebras...while transferring with the Workprinter.

Meanwhile, am much encouraged by exploration of color curves together with RGB Parade, and the Adobe Elements model image: it's great. Am moving around the R G B with different points on the color curves, and it's working, got some nice whites, got really good color correction. Had tried using the waveform, may go back to it, but this is great! It really does give much more control than the color corrector, but that's going to be useful too. Got to experiment a lot more.
RalphM wrote on 2/22/2004, 5:15 PM
bunyabunya,
WorkPrinter - Nice Unit..... I use one of Roger's CineMate Models for the 8mm and a modified Revere for the Silent 16.
bunyabunya wrote on 2/22/2004, 7:06 PM
This one is a Workprinter-XP, and it's everything Roger said and more. What a marvelous invention, does a great job.

Experimented some more with getting brighter whites in this old Kodachrome, and found this works very well.
1. Take a snapshot of frame needing color correction, and import into Photoshop Elements, do autolevels, and save.
2. Import the corrected frame back into the timeline next to the original.
3. Display RGB parade.
4. Select an uncorrected frame and display its RGB parade. Use color curves to reproduce the distribution found in the Elements frame. Usually the blue has to come way up, the green somewhat less. Make minor adjustments in various parts of the graph.