I have a GigaByte 8KNXP motherboard with the Intel 875 chipset instead of the 865PE of the P4P800. It has a 3.2Ghz P4 with a gig of DDR400 dual-channel Corsair RAM. It is basically the equivalent of the P4P800. It is a screamer. There is simply nothing like Vegas with some serious horsepower behind it.

John

DELETED

Hey, I will live with the 12 hour renders if I can get four times as many pieces edited where as before I was only doing one. And as to the render problem...All I can say is this..I was getting 18 and 26 hour render times before. I rendered a piece for shits and giggles on the new sytem. On the old one it took about 6 hours, on the ASUS, it took about 1 hour.

Plus, I was able to open another application while renering...Instead of sitting around twiddleing my fingers.

Anyone find away around the render problem, Im thinking external processors or some such nonscense.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm?

v

I open two or three sessions and render over night on my ASUS P4P800. Each session renders slower, but there done in the morning.

Jacob

I only have a P4-2.8 and my renders went from 11.5 hrs to 2.5 hrs.

JJK

Hey guys..

What results are you getting with DSE's Render Test?

I just got a Pentium 4, HT 2.8 Ghz (1 gig cache), 800 FSB and I got a render time at 1:37. Veryt good, but I was hoping for faster.

Gary

<<I just cracked open my new ASUS P4P800.....WOW! I mean I had no idea I could work this fast!>>

Anyone using the ASUS P4C800-Deluxe?

Gary, others....if you're willing, crank up the FSB if you MB supports it, A P4 HT 2.8 (what I've got) should (with the right MB , memory and BIOS) easily and safely run at much higher FSB speed.

I couldn't find a specific page for a 2.8, the one below is for a faster CPU but it explains the basics. A useful tool to get is CPU-Z. With it you can see what your current setting are.

The FSB setting is often confused in how its discussed, since the values show its native setting, not the HT for example the P4 is quad or 4, so if you see 250 FSB, that means it runs at 1,000 FSB.

Anyhow, take a look

http://www.legitreviews.com/reviews/eeoverclocking/


With a P4 2.8 and modest overclocking you should get anywhere from 50 seconds to 80 seconds or so on the SoFo render test file. Other factors get into like how fast your memory is and how agressive the timing is set. Again many of the newer MB's make it very easy and nearly automatic to overclock. Very little risk in trying it and it can pay BIG dividiend in reducing rendering times and also how well the preview plays black with less frame drops the faster you push the CPU.

I have almost the same as John Cline, a GigaByte 8KNXP motherboard with the Intel 875 chipset but only a 3.0Ghz P4 with a gig of DDR400 dual-channel Kingston HyperX CAS2 (2-2-2-6) RAM. I get 1:32 on Spot’s render test.

A question for BillyBoy about overclocking: I’m running at stock speed and when I render to MPEG2, my motherboard processor temp warning beeps every once in a while as it hovers around 60C. I’m just using the stock heatsink fan from Intel. I couldn’t imagine overclocking this thing since it would just run hotter. Is this normal or did I not install the HSF properly? Should I have used Arctic Silver instead of the pad that was on the Intel HSF? Should I get a better HSF? If so which?

I have 5 case fans in my Antec PlusView1000AMG. Two are blowing in the front, one blowing in the side, and two blowing out the back (3-in, 2-out). Should I have the side fan blowing out instead? (2-in, 3-out) I can only attach 3 of them to my Antec True480BLUE power supply FAN connectors so three are throttled and two are running at full speed. I’m wondering if the airflow too is much and is hurting the HSF’s ability to cool the processor.

~jr

You can check on Intel's web site the recomend MAX temp for your CPU. I have an AMD XP 1800 and the recomended max temp is between 80-90c (i forget). If you max safe temp is say, 95c, just turn your alarm warning up a little (it won't hurt).

You could also get liquid cooling. :)

As for the fans n your computer, you may have to many. Airflow is more important then how much air you move (nintendo gameccube uses 1 fan at the end of some ductwork to force air in one side & out the other, same with mac g4-cube). If you can get the fans to have the air flow across the MB & CPU then that would help (maybe remove the fan on te side). I've found that a fan on the lower front & upper back make good circulation. As most CPU fans blow down onto the processor (that i've seen anyway) having air blow across wouldn't hurt. But, on one CPU I setup, it was getting hotter then it should. Ends up I had the heatsink a little off. :) Took it off, put it back on and all way good.

Yes. I am. What's the question?

I built a system with the Asus P4C800-E deluxe. Great Mobo, I couldn't be happier. It has everything I need, dual SATA Raid, IDE Raid, etc... paired with the right components, a screamin machine. I'm also a gamer in addition to a video dabbler ( rapidly becoming a video addict).

John, it could be you put too much compound on the heatsink. Very little is needed. Following shows one method. It varies depending on the compound. This one is pretty thick.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

I'm kind of shocked how much they put on, I never put anywhere near that much on.

Most people doing it the first time or two put on way too much. You're not putting frosting on a cake, so being generous in this case in the wrong thing to do.

The idea is once you apply power the first time, the heat coming off the chip should liquify the compound some, it should spead and create a seal. In fact you should be able to smell the excess burning off.

If you put too much on, there isn't good conduction and the heatsink can't do its job and the chip heats up more than it would have. Also the compound may never spead enough if put on too thickly again defeating the purpose. It isn't meant as glue or have anything to due with holding the heatsink on, it just suppose to help form a good bond so you get a good heat exchange.

You temp is on the high side, but some chips just run hotter than others, so don't know. If you think you put too much on you can carefully pull the chip, clean it and try again, but kind of risky. I wouldn't.

Forgot to answer the rest...

I'm just using the stock fan/heatsink that came with the P4 and even when rendering overnight it never gets over 104 F. Maybe I just got a lucky CPU then runs cooler than normal.

If you have a lot of case fans (on this system I got 3) you could end up just circulating the air inside the case. The idea is to pull cool air in, doesn't matter from where, (top, side, front, back, then blow it out the other end with the air current passing over the CPU. Easier to say then do sometimes. On balance I think its more imporant to blow the hotter air out then getting overly worried about get cool air in.

My P4-2.8 really was running hot with the intel fan and I installed a 6000 rpm fan inplace of the intel fan and it held the render temp at 131F. With the intel fan I was seeing 167F and warning buzzers up the ying yang.

JJK

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the Intel slow down it's clock speed if it gets hot to protect itself? I remember Toms hardware doing an article about how the AMD's didn't do this and you could actually fry the chips - they said the Intel's had a built in thermal protection system - i.e. slowing themselves down to decrease heat.

If you have alarms going off with a stock set up & no overclocking I would get out the arctic silver and re-mount the cpu. Check the temp before and after in the bios or with a temp utility & see if you improved anything. Some motherboards also have been known to report incorrect proc temps (ASUS p4pe for example) so that is something else to look for.

good luck,
Yoyodyne

I used the intel compound first then the Radio shack stuff second. Problem with the stuff is it tends to puddle when it gets squished. We had the same problem with our aluminum 427 heads and wound up using Harley Davidson aluminum paint for the sealant. You could stack up two head gaskets then with 12.5 compression and not blow the gaskets. This P4 kind of reminds me of 550 screaming horsepower.

JJK

Liam Vegas wrote:
<<Yes. I am. What's the question?>>

I'm assuming you were responding to my question about anyone here using the ASUS P4C800 Deluxe motherboard...

I have one ordered...so while I wait for it to come in, I'm looking for feedback on it. I'm getting the P4 3.0C to go with it.

John

If I’m reading the Intel specs correctly, it looks like my max operating temp is 70C deg. This was my first time building a PC and adding the heat sink looked pretty simple since Intel uses thermal tape but it was pretty thick if I remember correctly. The processor never gets above 60C deg so I guess I’m OK leaving it the way it is but I should probably use Arctic Silver and a better heat sink on the next one if I plan to overclock it. I think I’ll play with the fans a bit and try and just have cool air coming in the front and blowing out the back. I think the side fan just stirs things up inside too much and disturbs the airflow.

Thanks everyone of all the advice.

~jr

Got Liquid Nitrogen?

5 GHz Project: CPU Cooling With Liquid Nitrogen

I'm assuming you were responding to my question about anyone here using the ASUS P4C800 Deluxe motherboard...

You are probably not using the threaded view? So you probably don't see that I responded to your specific post (which would have made it clear).

I guess with some of using threaded and non-threaded views of the forum it can be a little confusing. For instance your response is not linked to my question... oh well. Not a big problem. I guess the solution is to "quote" every post in your post so that you can see the relevance without needing to be in the threaded view.

I have one ordered...so while I wait for it to come in, I'm looking for feedback on it. I'm getting the P4 3.0C to go with it.

Nothing much to say really. Had mine since May of last year with a 3.0Ghz and it is working pretty well. I am not overclocking. I have four drives inside the box and then I hang of a further 3 external USB drives. I had some trouble getting the internal firewire to work so I disabled that and got a PCI card instead.

> You are probably not using the threaded view? So you probably don't see that I responded to your specific post (which would have made it clear).

This is why I quote all my posts. I use the non-threaded view because I don’t like to click on 70 posts individually just to see some of the longer ones. Sony really needs to update their forum software. At a minimum they should allow you to quickly switch back and forth without having to update your profile to do it.

At DMN if you select the non-threaded “view all” it shows the thread hierarchy on top with all the posts in one list. I find this much easier since I can quickly relate back to who is answering what thread and still read the whole thing continuously without having to click again. The Videomaker forums give you the thread hierarchy on top with all the posts below as well. Sony’s software would be fine if it were one way or the other but it is confusing for those of us who use the non-threaded view to follow sometimes.

(sorry to interrupt your thread)

~jr