Lighting for low-reflection framed pic shoot

johnmeyer wrote on 7/25/2005, 9:15 AM
I have to shoot several hundred framed prints. Many are professionally mounted, so I can't remove them from the frames. How do I light them to reduce or eliminate the specular reflections from the glass? My old lighting books suggest two light sources at a 45 degree angle, like a light table, but that doesn't seem to produce good results. I think I somehow need to light them with a diffuse light, while keeping the background, behind the lighting, totally black.

Any suggestions, or links to a tutorial that would tell me how to proceed?

Thanks!

Comments

Coursedesign wrote on 7/25/2005, 9:31 AM
Using two light sources at a 45 degree angle is still the ticket today.

Naturally, if you have glass reflecting something else in the room, you need to darken the room or use black foamcore, black fabric or some other object to block the reflections you can see in the glass.

Diffuse lighting will give you a different feel, useful for shooting some highly textured materials, but this has nothing to do with these reflections per se.
Guy Bruner wrote on 7/25/2005, 11:12 AM
Did you try a polarizer filter?
johnmeyer wrote on 7/25/2005, 12:29 PM
The polarizer works well on some reflections, but not others. Doesn't seem to do much on non-specular reflections from glass.
rmack350 wrote on 7/26/2005, 9:25 PM
Well, the polarizer works if the lights are shining from positions where the polararizer can work. The stars have to line up, ya know?

A soft light would seem to offer more chances for reflections off the glass-the effect might look a little more like fogging.

Treat these as if you were shooting into something like a mirror. Keep moving those lights to the side until you can't see their reflection. Black out everything in front of the glass- you might even resort to shooting through a hole in your duvatyne or black foam core.

It'll work, you just have to keep trying.

Rob Mack
BarryGreen wrote on 7/27/2005, 12:32 AM
Get some sheets of polarizing gel and put those over your lights. Make sure it's oriented the same way on both lights. That'll polarize the light going to the pictures. Then use your polarizing filter to cancel out the light reflections, and you should have completely reflection-free images (well, at least there will be no reflection from your light sources).
vicmilt wrote on 7/27/2005, 6:43 AM
Here's a great trick for this kind of situation -

to get you in the right frame of mind, think Pool Table Bank Shot.

1-Put a small light right in FRONT of the lens, pointing at the offending framed photograph.
2- Walk around the photo.
3- Where ever you DON'T see a reflection - that's where to put your light.
Generally speaking two lights at 45 degees is the basic setup. Use spots at full flood for even distribution. If this a a critical job, put a large grey card in front of the photo and use your Zebras at 75 or 80 IRE - not for exposure, but to see how evenly you've lit the surface. Stop down until you see the zebra's and move the lights in or out to even the illumination. Then go back to Number one for final placement.
If you are getting paid for this job, inform your client that the correct way to proceed is to remove the glass prior to shooting. This would be a billable expense.
Different glass will have different waves in it, so you will have to adjust your lights for each setup. Also, if the framer used "Non-reflex" glass - there is no way you will get a good shot.
Hope this helps...
v
Chienworks wrote on 7/27/2005, 9:39 AM
Non-reflex, or non-glare glass simply means you get a light even reflection/glare form any angle all the time. Horrid stuff! Robs the image of contrast terribly. If you encounter this you absolutely must remove the image from the glass or it's not even worth trying.
johnmeyer wrote on 7/27/2005, 10:55 AM
Thanks everyone. I'm going to start this tonight.
baysidebas wrote on 7/27/2005, 1:46 PM
All good advice but missing one important point: if you center the camera over the picture, so as to eliminate any perspective distortion, you'll get a reflection of the camera off the glass and centered in the picture. One technique that worked well for me in shooting Daguerreotypes, which, if you don't know are highly polished metal that acts as a very efficient mirror, has been to cut a circular hole in a black mat board to fit over the lens. The board needs to be large enough to cover the field of view of the lens at twice the distance from lens to picture. that way anything not blocked by the board will not be reflected into the lens' field of view. Make sure that there's no stray light illuminating the hole or lens, use gobos to shield them from the luminaries. Good luck!
mattockenfels wrote on 7/27/2005, 1:47 PM
John, also consider aperture/lens length to minimize depth of field. It might help minimize some of the refelection problems ...

Cheers!

-Matt
johnmeyer wrote on 7/27/2005, 2:35 PM
John, also consider aperture/lens length to minimize depth of field.

I was actually considering using a fairly long focal length in order to both increase the distance from the camera (and minimize reflections from the camera itself) and also to reduce any "wide angle" distortion of the perpendicular sides of the picture. I was also going to use a fairly small f-stop to minimize any focus errors.
farss wrote on 7/27/2005, 3:31 PM
Whilst a small f stop gives you good depth of field I think most lenses perform best at high f stops.
Just a tip that sure will not help in this case but for small objects that need even lighting I've seen the stills guys use a cocoon. Just a small white tent with holes for the camera. Another gadget good for jewellery is the infinity box.
Bob.
Coursedesign wrote on 7/27/2005, 5:42 PM
Most lenses perform best stopped down about two stops.

Why?

A smaller opening (say f/11 to f/32) creates more diffraction, which reduces sharpness.

A larger opening (say f/2.8) increases chromatic and spherical aberration, which reduces sharpness.

"Cocoons" sell on eBay for very little money, but aren't really suitable for this.

I used to shoot a ton of these repro jobs of paintings, and always had to remove the glass to get perfect quality.

With plain glass on, you can get "OK" quality with skillful lighting.

Non-reflex glass gives you too much mush IMHO. I never found a way around it.