>>PS: I tried running RCA cables from my stereo direct to the computer, and, although the signal seemed compatible, I believe it was too strong for my sound card. I had to turn the output very low on the amp

that method should work the best actually.

you sure you were adjusting the 'input' volume of your sound card? did you go into RECORD properties, not PLAYBACK? you should have no trouble turning down the input of that sound card. just pop open your volume mixer, go to Options | Properties, change to 'RECORDING' then hit okay and turn down the 'LINE IN' volume.

>> (actually, I was running from the headphone jack of one of my reel to reel recorders to step the signal down some)

are you sure that's a step down? most headphone jacks are a higher level than a "line out", which would be counter productive in your situation. stick with the line out.

btw - search the web about those music cd's. I know there was a way with the Philips CD recorders to switch CD's before the burn started, so you could start with a real Music CDR, and then swap it with a regular 25 cent CD-R before kicking off the burn. you just have to fool it, as Chienworks pointed out, the media is exactly the same.

- ben (cheesehole!)

Thanks for the replies.
I've tried just about every connection method available under my roof in an effort to find what works best and most consistently. I've pulled one of the reel to reels from my system and moved it down next to my computer. Line out on that machine (it's a TEAC X700R - a really fine machine - a member of TEAC's final generation of RtR's) simply overloads my sound card, no matter where I set the volume with Window's software setting (and thanks for the pointer on input/output . . . actually, I had experimented with both just to make certain, but input is the setting that I've always adjusted). My tape deck's line out will cause audible distortion even when the software volume setting for my card is turned all the way down. The volume is soft, but you can hear the distortion in the sound (I can attenuate the signal further using volume controls on the tape deck, but the result still just doesn't sound quite right).

For some reason, recording from the earphone jack of my tape machine to the line inputs of my Digi8 always produced predictable results, but there were too many instances where 80 minutes of music was marred (and IMO rendered useless) because of one or two glitches during the firewire capture process (I can fix most of these spots in VV30, but get tired of having to monitor every second of my dupe in real time or face the prospect of not catching said glitches until after I've burned a once-write disc).

Today, I've transferred and burned to disc all nine of Beethoven's symphonies using the Philips for initial transfer to CDRW. Copying that initial disc to my HD for further editing is much faster than having to capture in real time from my camcorder and, so far, seems much more consistent, both in the quality of the capture and the consistency (predictability) of the signal level.

The Philips is no jack rabbit when it comes to duplicating from one CD to another, but, I think it will be adequate for my purposes.

Thanks again for the reply, and please excuse the length of this post.

Caruso

PS: I tried running RCA cables from my stereo direct to the computer, and, although the signal seemed compatible, I believe it was too strong for my sound card. I had to turn the output very low on the amp (actually, I was running from the headphone jack of one of my reel to reel recorders to step the signal down some), but, until I could the signal low enough not to jump into the red, I wasn't happy with the results. WindowsXP and my sound card combination (SB128) leave a lot to be desired in terms of controlling the record level of an incoming audio line IMHO.
<<

You need to record from a line level output from your amp. The headphone line is not line level. If you stereo amp has a line out (tape out?) then I would try this. Make sure you connect this to your line input - not the mic input of the SB128. Also, make sure that the gain control on the line input is set correctly in Windows.

There should be no reason for you to go to an inbetween medium. Direct into the computer should be the best way.

Peter

Sound like a very 'round-about' way of doing things. Why not record straight into Vegas (or even better SF) via a good sound card. The video recorder method would compromise the music IMO, as it's not doing linear 16 bit 44k1.

geoff

seems like the best way would be to download an mp3 file of the song you want from a web site
i know of at least 20 web sites that you can get classical music from
then you don't have to be bothered with your your reel 2 reel
btw - i have a phillips cd recorder too...you must use "digital audio" cd-r's
you can buy them online for like 45 cents in a bundle of 100
good luck
sb

Here's another "Rube Goldberg" method I just tried myself since I have some VERY old LP records and no real way of getting my OLD record player output into my computer without jury-rigging something. The advantage is no problems associated with excessive gain or too weak a signal common to hooking up directly.

I caution this isn't for everyone and I'm sure professionals are pulling their hair out, but for hobbists on a budget, give this a try. You'll only be out the cost of a GOOD microphone and that is a must.

I just moved my PC into the room where I have this state of art (circa 70's) stereo I build myself way back in those glory days. A upscale Heathkit with some super quality speakers.

Anyhow, all I did was open a new project in Video Factory, set a track to record solo then using my newest friend, the Telex M-60 super directional microphone I fired up my old turntable and started to record into Vegas. Don't laugh. The quality was really very good and just some very minor noise. I LOVE this microphone! I finished up using some of the build-in audio features of Vegas to add in a little fullness. Check the manual or online help for setting up to 25 buses each of which you can add FX events to and control seperately. This microphone is SUPER sensitive so a prerequisite will likely be to drop down the sensitivity of your microphone volume silder under recording control to only a click or two from the bottom on the slider.

Now one final suggestion. I know Sonic has a really good noise reduction package, but a little rich for my blood right now. So I did just a very minor amount of noise filtering using 'Audio Clearer Lab' only $40 which can create a noise print filter. Comes with several presets but to make a custom one all you need to do is record about ten seconds of "silence" that obtained from a open mike, then apply that filter on top of any file and the typical hissing, popping and cracking sounds typical to recording like this can be all but eliminated.

The others advantage of doing something like this is no messing around burning CD's, no worry about being able to "record" and really the results are far better then I though possible.

I certainly appreciate all the helpful comments. I’d like to indulge you all a bit further if I may:

**There should be no reason for you to go to an inbetween medium. Direct into the computer should be the best way**

Sonic: I’ve tried line level direct from the amp before everything else. The problem is that the line level out is constant (one of those fancy provisions that allow you to fiddle away at your heart’s content with the volume knob out front without disturbing the line level out to your destination tape machine). It cannot be adjusted, and the volume level controls in the software for my sound card are just too course for my liking. They are slider controls, and, while you can adjust in real time, the effort is still somewhat hit or miss. There are no meters unless I open VV or WL windows side by side. Usually the VV window disappears when I touch the WinXP (actually my SB128’s) slider controls.

My reel to reel incorporates a powerful pre-amp, and it has an excellent volume attenuator that works on both the headphone and line level outputs.

The biggest problem (sorry, I should have mentioned this earlier) with the amp/rtr-direct approach is that I get a hum in that connection (I call it 60-cycle hum, although my terminology may be incorrect). The turntable is properly grounded to the grounding post on my amp and this annoying hum isn’t present (or apparent) in the audio path of my stereo system. I have two vcrs, two cassette recorders, two reel to reel machines, and a dvd in that system. Everything interacts as it should . . . no hum in speakers or at my headphones, no matter what phone jack I plug into . . . but when I hook to my sound card, the hum is there . . . it’s present in the ambient level before I start any recording, it’s in the sound that I monitor during recording, and, of course, it is, unfortunately, in the final recording. Over the holidays last December, I had a spurt of inspiration and pulled the processor out of my computer setup, took it upstairs where it was respectfully close to the stereo, and fired it up to see if the hum could be the result the excessive length of the patch cords required to carry the signal from my sound system to my basement computer setup. No joy, the hum was still there.

For some reason, using a camcorder alleviates the hum problem. I can’t explain it, but, perhaps someone on this board can.

**Sound like a very 'round-about' way of doing things.** Geoff . . . LOL. Actually, I did go out and purchase $70 worth of Monster cable to stretch from my stereo to my computer, but, for all the reasons above, was not happy with the result, so I returned the cable and picked up the Philips, instead. I’ve probably added ten years to my longevity in the process. Running patch cord up and down the basement stairs isn’t safe, and, for sure, lugging a 60 lb tape machine up and down the same stairs (yea, I've tried dubbing from LP to reel to computer, also) isn’t good for my back.

If you think about it, it’s really not that much more round about than recording to the HD. Instead of recording to the ‘LP’ folder on my computer, I record to a CDRW on the Philips. Pop the disc into my computer, click on VV’s little CD icon, and the tracks appear in the media pool window. Additionally, as I capture an LP to the Philips, I use my computer to be on line here, typing my diatribes, LOL. Ain’t life just grand!!

**The video recorder method would compromise the music IMO, as it's not doing linear 16 bit 44k1** Actually, my Sony trv103 digital8 records and outputs at 16/48. Long before digi8 arrived, I use to use my CCDV-220 camcorder (which was one of the first to incorporate stereo PCM sound) as a DAT recorder in the field to record concerts and to make audition tapes. Dwarfed by the compact size of today’s modern camcorders, at around 5 lbs, it was a feather compared to my long-play reel to reel behemoth. It has always amused me that Sony makes so little mention of the powerful audio capability of their machines. The trv103’s only recording drawback (IMO) is that gain control is “automatic,” so, if your source had, say, 5 seconds of suspenseful silence followed by an explosive full-orchestra attack, gain on the camcorder would be wide open in search of a signal during the silence, then get surprised by the sudden entrance of the full orchestra. This was really annoying with older equipment. In most of my everyday use, it’s not that noticeable on the trv103 – hasn’t interfered with my LP transfers that I can recall.


**seems like the best way would be to download an mp3 file of the song you want** I should really try that sometime, Sonicboom. I’ve never done it before. How much choice do you have as far as performances go, and how long would it take to download a collection of works like Beethoven’s nine symphonies (are they really available online?). Are you not required to pay for this music? Is the quality 16/44?

Oh, and one last thought . . . I’m not certain I would avail myself of the opportunity to instantly obtain the entire body of recorded music (classical or otherwise . . . I have plenty of Elvis, Cash, and Sinatra in my collection, I’ve try them now and again, but I don’t inhale, LOL) even if it were available. This LP transfer thing is as much a hobby as it is a necessity. I’ve enjoyed the process of learning how to do it as much as the notion of preserving prized copies of milestone performances/recordings.

I’m sure my results using my camcorder would withstand scrutiny from all but the most discerning ears (or diagnostic instruments). I’m just looking to reduce some of the tedium and eliminate glitches (something I’m yet to achieve in the direct to HD route . . . could be my equipment, I’m sure, especially that sound card . . . on second thought, in all fairness, audio transferred analogously through my soundcard has been virtually glitch free . . . transfers via firewire [audio captured as an avi along with a blank video track, then converted to wav] has been plagued by infrequent, but ever-present glitches [dropouts??]).

At any rate, reading and posting to this thread has already given me two symphonies-worth of enjoyment already. Thanks for the replies, and thanks to SF for a great product in VV30.

Caruso

if your equiptment is too close to your computer--that can cause the humming sound
if i place my phone too close - i get a humming sound
same with my mixer, etc
try moving it away--seeif that helps
just a suggestion
good luck
sb