Comments

B.Verlik wrote on 10/31/2004, 12:38 AM
I've tried it before, but with a much more simple camera. (Sony Digital 8). You need to find the right 'shutter speed'. This will reduce 'flickering'. But it may reduce clarity too. Also, set the camera up,(very close to the projector) so it's as aligned to the screen as much as possible, to avoid further distortion. It's not going to look great, no matter what, but it should look about as good as you can expect from 8 mm. Plus you can enhance some things in vegas. There may be other advice that will follow mine, that may be better. So wait a little while, it's slow on the weekends.
johnmeyer wrote on 10/31/2004, 1:00 AM
Telecine

Workprinter Workflow

My Original Workprinter Posts
TorS wrote on 10/31/2004, 3:10 AM
You're in Stockholm, right? Get in touch with Sveriges Radio (and others) and ask who they are using or if they take on outside jobs themselves. There is a good chance this is handled by freelancers who'd be interested in doing it for you. Unless you plan to do this regularly, buying new equipment may not be advisable.
Get tthe results on miniDV (or whatever you prefer) load it into Vegas and make the old man a sweet compilation that he can watch on a DVD player in his living room.
Tor
farss wrote on 10/31/2004, 3:50 AM
First thing you need to fin dout is if it's Super 8 or Regular 8. If it's Super 8 then you might find someone with a S8 gate for a real telecine although you will pay for the service. As far as I can determine there was never a R8 gate made for any of the real telecines. If it's regular 8 then the Workprinter would seem to be as good as it gets. If you can find someone with one and you want a good job done they're the way to go.
However I'd suggest you have a good look at the film first. An aweful lot of it really is in pretty poor shape and / or it was pretty bad to start with.
Even if you cannot afford the cost of pro work check the state of the film. A lot of it was 'lubricated' with some form of wax. The combination of that and those silly paper envelopes are a breeding ground for fungus. We clean the film with 90% ethanol, 10% distilled water to get it off which should delay further degredation of the film.

Bob.
johnmeyer wrote on 10/31/2004, 8:28 AM
Workprinter does BOTH 8mm and Super8.
DVDeviations wrote on 10/31/2004, 10:11 AM
Hi Garo,

I can do this for you on a WorkPrinter XP. I can bring everything into Vegas and then print to tape if you want. Someone mentioned that you are in Stockholm, I could find out if there is someone with a WorkPrinter in Stockholm or nearby city. I am upgrading my system to a "Sniper", which is being used by the Academy of Motion Pictures Archives to create a reference libabrary of DVDs of their collections instead of handling the fragile originals, so this would be a great quality transfer....

Just because of shipping costs, I would assist in finding someone near you (at least on the same continent), I am located in Southern California.

Colleen
www.DVDeviations.com
JackW wrote on 10/31/2004, 11:27 AM
Garo:

All of the advice above is true and correct. However, if you still want to try this yourself, three suggestions: DO NOT use a projection screen or the wall of your home. The "pebble" on these surfaces will show on the tape. Instead, use a sheet of foam-core, which you should be able to get at any artist supply store for a small amount of money (2-4 dollars U.S.)

Place the camera as close to the projector as possible, as has been suggested, and also place the projector as close to the foam-core as possible -- that is, as close as you can and still focus. This will give you the sharpest and brightest image.

Finally, put a jack in the audio/in port on your camera -- just a jack with no cable attached will work. This will keep you from recording the projector noise on your tape as you tape the films.

For a small amount of film footage, in a pinch, this is a good way to solve the problem.

Jack
RalphM wrote on 10/31/2004, 12:23 PM
Good advice given above.

Would add that a variable speed projector such as the Chinons made in the 60's can be a help if you want to forego the telecine route.

Using shutter speed on a consumer camera to compensate for flicker is usually not going to be very successful. Better approach would be to try Virtual Dub deflicker filter or one of several similar filters.

Also, be aware that film has about twice the contrast ratio of video, so I would avoid trying to get the brightest image possible. A piece of flat, photo gray paper or hard board would be better than bright white. Also, setting the projector further back from the projection surface allows the camcorder to be more closely in line with the projector, minimizing any keystoning effect.

It usually desirable to clean and lubricate the films as well to avoid scratching or glazing the belts in the projector.