OT - Contrast issues on DV

corug7 wrote on 2/21/2006, 10:34 AM
I may have a recurring job shooting services at a church with a primarily African-American congregation. My question is how do I shoot properly exposed video in this situation. Many of the participants are very dark skinned, and they wear white clothing. I have read the section in John Jackman's book regarding these matters, but I don't have control over the lighting, so the points he makes are rather MOOT, in my case.

Would using a neutral density filter help at all in this situation? Any other suggestions? I know this isn't the right forum for such questions, but the intelligence and experience levels seem to be higher here than in the other forums.

Corey

Comments

Jay Gladwell wrote on 2/21/2006, 11:02 AM

All an ND filter would do is reduce the light causing you to increase exposure. You'd get the same results only with a larger f-stop.

Under these circumstances, you'll just have to try to find a happy compromise between the white shirts and darker faces. That's all you can do.


Former user wrote on 2/21/2006, 11:03 AM
Turn off auto exposure. Try to find an exposure setting that is a happy medium.

corug7 wrote on 2/21/2006, 11:13 AM
My auto exposure is ALWAYS off, unless I need a quick adjustment. Thanks for the replies.

I guess what I'm asking is, is there such a thing as an acceptable level of superwhites. Most of my customers don't care if the highlights are a little blown out as long as faces are correctly exposed. Also, I will generally be transferring the DV tape to a standalone DVD recorder. Is there any way to clamp the whites while transferring without reducing the range of contrast?
johnmeyer wrote on 2/21/2006, 11:28 AM
I run into this situation all the time when transferring film to video. There is just too much dynamic range (latitude) in the film compared to what video can handle. Wedding photographers deal with this all the time (bride in white, groom in black tux). Their solution is to use super low-contrast film.

My "solution" is to expose for the highlights, and then fix the shadows (in your case, the dark skin) in post production. My reasoning is that you cannot recover detail from highlights that are overexposed, but you can often recover quite a bit from the shadows.

Use the zebra function on your camera (if it has one) during shooting to make sure you capture the highlights. Use Color Curves to create your own custom gamma curve and you should be able to get pretty good results. Also, to the extent you can control the lighting, so you have even illumination, this will keep from turning a difficult situation into an impossible one.
rs170a wrote on 2/21/2006, 11:44 AM
My "solution" is to expose for the highlights...

This is where we differ. I'd rather get a good facial exposure and blow out the highlights. I realize that you can't get back what's not there but I'd rather do that than try to bring up the shadows (i.e. noise).

Mike
Jay Gladwell wrote on 2/21/2006, 12:12 PM

John, I agree with you. In 99 out of 100 cases, I would also expose for the highlights, except in this case. The faces are more important than the shirts.


johnmeyer wrote on 2/21/2006, 12:22 PM
I would also expose for the highlights, except in this case. The faces are more important than the shirts.

I can't disagree with either of you, given how important faces are in this situation. Also, it's a heck of a lot easier to do (expose for the faces) than worry about the blown highlights, which can come and go depending on what moves into the scene.
BrianStanding wrote on 2/21/2006, 1:44 PM
You might want to try contrast or light diffusion filters on the lens.

Tiffen has a series of glass to try to control contrast, here:
http://www.tiffen.com/results.html?search_type_no=369&tablename=filters&family=Tiffen+Filters&search_filter_format=Screw-In

I've had some luck with the "Low Contrast" series.
rs170a wrote on 2/21/2006, 2:38 PM
I've also had some success with a fog filter. It helps to ease into the highlights instead of completely blowing them out. The effect is similar to what you'll see in a scene in a film with a strong backlight. It might be a nice effect for a church video. Try the lowest number filter or it's generally too much.

Mike
rmack350 wrote on 2/21/2006, 9:13 PM
Yay MOOT!

IF it were an issue of lighting I'd say this: Lighting dark skin is much like lighting any dark semigloss surface. Dark skin shows reflections very well and the best course is to use large white panels to reflect in the skin. Just like a car shot where you see the white panels in the surface of the car.

However, if you have no control of the light and they insist on wearing white gowns...It's going to have to be done with the camera. Other nice folk here wil have good ideas, I think.

You might look into higher end cameras to rent. Take this problem to a good rental house and ask them what they think. I'm guessing that with a good camera you can tweak the curves before you even start shooting. If this is the solution then the next problem is one of money...

Rob Mack
GlennChan wrote on 2/22/2006, 2:30 AM
Some select cameras have options to tweak the gamma curve/response (DVX100, maybe the DVC30) or the knee settings.

The video knee applies a linear transfer function to highlights instead of a power function of 0.45. This basically squeezes all that highlight information into the upper range of the video signal. The downside to this is that you can get knee artifacts... saturated colors get funky (funky being the technical term).

Even cheap consumer cameras already have a video knee. On higher-end cameras, the knee is more adjustible.

On some higher-end cameras, there are also r, g, and b gain controls (at least there is on the Panasonic HDC20 / DVCPRO HD). The Cinealta (even higher end) actually has manually adjustible curves.

Camera-wise (ignoring filters and other solutions), the best camera may be the DVX100 as it has the cinegamma feature. I think it gives you extra exposure latitude without knee artifacts (because it doesn't do the same thing as knee functions do). I still think you'd have the problem though.

2- You can always make it look intentional (i.e. glow).
corug7 wrote on 2/22/2006, 9:19 AM
Thanks again for all the help. I knew I could count on some good advice here.

I'm using a VX-2000 as my main camera and a Panasonic PV-DV953 as my back-up.

Because I'm doing this for a church, I'm not charging a whole lot, so I'm trying to do this as quick and dirty as possible without it looking quick and dirty ; ). I realize that limits what I can do, but at the same time, I'm really focusing on the technical aspects of my shooting. As you know, shooting it right cuts down on post time tremendously.

My day job is working as a technician at a post house, so you would probably guess that I am very critical when it comes to my own work. The main problem I'm having is that I know how I think the video should look, and the scopes (or zebra stripes) don't always agree with me.

Thanks again, everyone. You're the best.

Corey