Toshiba has a 14'' model that has S video in.

You should take a look at what you need to calibrate and then see if the TV has all those controls. Some don't.

Here's another one:

Color Bars and how to use them

John

Ideally, you want a TV monitor that lets you disable all but the blue channel. The alternative (which I use) is a blue filter, but you have to have the right blue filter, and even then it doesn't let you do quite as good a job.

You can get a Wratten 47B gel (filter) from some photo shops. A Rosco #80 also works, but a Rosco #64 looks better.
The comb filters in some TVs throw the color off somewhat, but you can compensate. The S-Video on a small monitor isn't really necessary. You can't tell the difference. The best way to adjust it is to aim the camera at something colorful like a can with fruit on it or the like and visually compare the image on the screen with what you are seeing especially in terms of saturation.
John

1- A broadcast monitor is a lot easier to calibrate.

In comparison, consumer TVs can be a little wacky because:
They are designed to be as bright as possible. One tradeoff made is that consumer TVs have a very high color temperature / are a bit blue-ish in comparison to the standard (or to room lighting).
Flesh tone "correction". Anything close to flesh tone hue gets 'squeezed' towards flesh tone hue. Flesh tones will also look right, but there will be distortions for colors close to flesh tone in hue.
Different phosphor composition. Pure red/green/blue will look different between monitors.
Excessive sharpening.
Scanning velocity modulation.
Red push. At the higher color temperature, the viewer will see reds as being more de-saturated. So the device compensates for this by oversaturating the reds.
The comb filter on the composite/RCA connection may not be that great, so you get lots of cross-color artifacts (i.e. rainbows on black and white images). S-video won't have this. Many people watch off composite anyways, so this may not necessarily be bad if you want to monitor for it.
The monitor is overdriven that the electron beam loses focus slightly, and/or there is geometric distortion.
Because they are so bright, underexposed footage tends to look fine.

Consumer televisions are kind of like mystery meat. That's good to know before you think the consumer television is what your work will actually look like.

2- The gels aren't going to be perfect at blocking all the red and green light. The "green" phosphors in a TV will emit some wavelengths that are in the blue spectrum anyways. The cheap way to get a gel is to get a sample gel pack made by Lee, Rosco, or GAM. You may be able to snag these for free off B&H (tack it onto another order) or from a local rental or equipment house. Look for the gels with the sharpest cutoff... the violet gels will work too.

Try these alternate color bars (vegas 6 .veg):
http://www.glennchan.info/Proofs/dvinfo/flashing%20bars.veg

What you want to do with those bars is to minimize the flashing of the bars. Be sure to enable loop playback. Hold the gel over your eyes while you tweak the hue control.

Corrolary: I've found that on my home television, that method doesn't work that well. The flesh tones look screwed up afterwards. I just decided to eye ball the flesh tones so that they look natural. I haven't looked into this that deeply.

The S-Video on a small monitor isn't really necessary. You can't tell the difference.
You should see the cross-color artifacts disappear (the false color on high frequency detail).

On some monitors, the resolution will also go up (this depends on how bad the composite convertor/demodulator is).

I like the flashing color bars. I can see how they might help.

Corrolary: I've found that on my home television, that method doesn't work that well. The flesh tones look screwed up afterwards. I just decided to eye ball the flesh tones so that they look natural. I haven't looked into this that deeply.
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Using two different Color setup DVD's, the camera method, or anything else I have always found that I had to eyeball the flesh tones and tweak the settings using either a television OR a real monitor.
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"The S-Video on a small monitor isn't really necessary. You can't tell the difference."

[You should see the cross-color artifacts disappear (the false color on high frequency detail
On some monitors, the resolution will also go up (this depends on how bad the composite convertor/demodulator is). ]
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Glenn,
I am not sure we are both talking about the same thing here.

He asked about using a "television" (monitor). Not a REAL monitor.

In THAT context there is visually no real difference between the image via composite vs the image via S-Video on a small 8-13" television monitor. The differences become more significant as the screen size increases. This is strictly a practical recommendation because if he is looking for a small television to use as an external monitor for now and he is more likely to have "choices" if he doesn't insist that it be one with an S-Video connection.
I JUST RECENTLY bought a "real" monitor. A 15" JVC. I am happy I did, but up until then I was able to produce exceptionally good video using a 13 inch Sony television with a composite input and output. The video I produce now isn't any better, but with the "real" monitor it is simply Easier.

John