Hi, thanks for the response.

Just curious as to the color...

White tape will need to be rotoscoped, correct?

Couldn't I use blue or a slightly different shade of green and make a second keying pass?

I noticed fluorescent orange was used in the Chronicles of Narnia. But again this would have to be rotoscoped... something I don't want to do manually, as I don't have any software that does it automatically.

There's no software that does rotoscoping automatically...

My first question is: what color to use for tracking points on greenscreen?

It needs to be close enough that you can key with it. However, if it is a color
your talent would not wear you can substitute it with the same green as your
background.

It also needs to be distinct enough that your tracking software can find it.
What software are you using?

Secondly, what material is best to use for tracking points that will be applied to greenscreen cloth (in my case, polar fleece)? (ie. velcro? tape? pinned or taped on plastic/paper? or any other suggestions)

Anything that works for you you don't want to clean up residue so pinning is OK

Thirdly, can someone explain in simple terms or maybe supply a link to calculate focal length? (I'm using a Canon HV20 if that helps).

Best to know what software you are using for tracking and 3D.

IMPORTANT: don't use zoom on camera always dolly and/or truck!

Hi, thanks for the response. I was making a salad so I couldn't reply earlier :-)

I'm using Blender for 3D graphics and Voodoo Camera Tracker for matchmoving.

Will I get spill or residue if I attempt to key out blue tracking markers on greenscreen? Someone said the blue channel is noisy.

Thanks again for all the advice!

Just use a garbage matte. You can create one using the Bezier mask in Vegas.
Bob.

Edit: Should mention these people have all manner of markers:

http://www.naturalpoint.com/optitrack/

Edit2: Those markers might be no good as they're IR reflective, not what you want for visible light tracking. My apologies.

Doing two passes for keying will result in a metric tonne of color-corrrection later on. Better to use a garbage matte and use a color that is fairly complementary so your tracking points are sure to show up after you key. Something like red or orange.

Also, use direct capture with an Intensity card instead of recording to tape, if you can, as you'll get 8-bit 4:2:2 uncompressed full-HD instead of 4:2:0 MPEG2 compressed 1440x1080. This little difference will also help you obtain a better result when keying, tracking, and color-correcting.

The residue I was talking about was glue on your background material. You
want to make sure that the target does not cast a shadow on the background.

When you downloaded voodoo there was a calibration image in the C:\voodoo\sample_image_sequence\calibrate folder. Print it on legal or larger
paper and glue to cardboard. Voodoo can estimate the focal length for you.
Follow the instructions included. It is a very good idea to go to manual settings
on your camera. Use a tripod on your camera and mount the calibration image
using a holder so it does not move.

Start with pans and not freehand movements to start. You can fine tune your
camera parameters easier. Consider creating both ends of your zoom.

Hi, thanks for the response!

I didn't even know about the calibration pattern, but as to the "included instructions", they seem to be non-existent in my folder. Perhaps digilab neglected releasing these instructions in the last update... (all their attention being diverted to the new commercial VooCat release??)

I posted a message on the digilab forum, hoping someone will reply with instructions... but the last response was July 7, so I might be waiting a while :-)

Thanks again,
Copperplate

Here is their pattern:


EDIT: I can't find the instructions either. It appears not needed with
latest version. Disregard using pattern.