ot - sata cables in the cold?

ushere wrote on 5/30/2007, 7:39 PM
third frost and my pc staggered to a halt while loading windows. did the same last year, and the resolution was the same this year as last - open case and wobble sata connections. all ok....

a. is it my locality where we have night frosts down to -5, and daytime upto 25 (cent) - shocking the nasty little connectors?

b. should i simply leave my pc on 24/7? (and add to my carbon footprint)

advice most welcome.

leslie

Comments

farss wrote on 5/30/2007, 8:02 PM
Cold can make plastics go rigid, shrinks metals.
Or it could be a condensation problem.

If it really is a cold problem, Radiospares sell ceramic heaters and a variety of heating tapes that are self regulating and low power, one inside the case might be an answer that doesn't dump too much carbon into the atmosphere
TheHappyFriar wrote on 5/30/2007, 8:08 PM
doubt it's a cold problem. i've had my computer go from inside the card @ -20f in the trunk to 75f in the house. Turned it on it & had no problems.

Odds are the SATA cables just don't fit right.
rmack350 wrote on 5/30/2007, 10:01 PM
Sata cables aren't such great designs, and lately I've seen a lot more locking connectors for SATA data and power connectors.

Bob's idea of a heating tape in the chassis is probably a good idea. Or you could look for other cables.

I live in relatively balmy Oakland CA and every winter I get a noisy graphics card fan that clears up after a restart. But it only happens when the room is in the 50s.

Rob Mack
ushere wrote on 5/31/2007, 3:47 AM
thanks gents...

i'll look into some internal mini heater (don't make kerosine stoves that small, or maybe one of those tea candles ;-)).

any recommendations re sata cables (bob?)

but what do you think about leaving on in general?

brr..it's getting chilly again...

leslie
blink3times wrote on 5/31/2007, 3:56 AM
The cold should not be doing this. I live in Manitoba where our Winters can go as low as -40C (-40F) and that's without the windchill. Our cars operate pretty stiff at that temp but the on board computers, cd players, lights, brakes...etc still function without issues.

My guess is that your cables are fitting properly or they're pretty cheap. In any event, what you could do is hang a 60watt light bulb inside the case... that should throw enough heat to keep things warm. my pressure washer sits outside and in the Spring when the temps go up and down I throw a 100watt light inside the pump housing to keep it from freezing and it works fine.
farss wrote on 5/31/2007, 4:50 AM
Try here:
http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/

look under cables. Even got ones that glow in the dark, that'll make Vegas render faster for sure.

In my experience cables, well connectors actually, cause more faults than anything else. Not so long ago I nearly needlessly replaced all the drives in my DVD duplication tower when all that was wrong was an intermittent IDE connection.

I suspect you've got a dodgy connection and the thermal change is making it fail completely, a mechanical prod gets the connection making contact again. As voltages and currents get lower there's less current to 'wet' contacts also. Oxides build up, cold makes contact open up a few microns and goodbye contact. Where it used to make contact oxidises so even when it warms up again, no connection. Just guessing really :)

Bob.
JJKizak wrote on 5/31/2007, 5:45 AM
Ah yes. If your vehicle is outside at -40F it means oil heaters all night long, idle all night long, (engine will never start in the morning), battery heater, 4 wheel drive mandatory as the wheel bearing grease freezes and one front and one rear wheel will rotate while the other two wheels slide along the pavement with chains on for about a 1/4 mile before they bust loose, 20 weight oil in the differential, plastic stickems for the inside of the windshield and side windows as defrosters are useless, and a lot of spare fenders to repair the damage by chains exploding off the wheels at 60mph, and long underware or you will freeze your you know what's off.
JJK
blink3times wrote on 5/31/2007, 6:33 AM
Actually, just a block heater does the trick, plugged in for 4 hours or more, and about 15 minutes warm up time when you start in the morning (for fuel injected cars...the carberated models is touch and go). Gotta have a good battery.
But it's a pretty stiff ride!! The suspension is frozen pretty good, and you have to be careful with the knobs and dials on the dash.... alot of them are plastic and they break off in your hands if you're too rough with them.

What irritates me is the rear view mirror.... forever having to adjust it. When you first get in, the seat is so stiff you don't sink in, so you have to adjust the mirror up. Then when the seat warms and you start sinking in, you have to adjust down...... up, down, up down.....
baysidebas wrote on 5/31/2007, 7:46 AM
a 60 W bulb will cook the computer's innards if left on long enough. Do you recall the toy oven that used a lightbulb as the cooking element?
mountainman wrote on 5/31/2007, 8:30 AM
OK I gotta ask, why is your PC outside? :) I keep mine in the house. It gets to -40 here but my pc is happy as long as it gets to sleep inside at night. JM.
rs170a wrote on 5/31/2007, 8:32 AM
a 60 W bulb will cook the computer's innards...

Agreed. Have you ever touched one after it's been on for a few minutes? It gets damn hot!! A better choice might be a compact flourescent bulb - although there's that mercury issue with them :-(

Mike
blink3times wrote on 5/31/2007, 9:06 AM
"a 60 W bulb will cook the computer's innards if left on long enough. Do you recall the toy oven that used a lightbulb as the cooking element?"

A 60 watt bulb doesn't put out that much heat.

In a tightly enclosed box (like a child's toy oven) would do some damage. But in a ventilated area it does not put out enough heat to cause damage. Put it this way... a lamp shape near to a 60 watt bulb *MAY* brown on the inside after a few years.

But if it makes one nervous... you can always go to 40 watts.... or 20.... or.....
TheHappyFriar wrote on 5/31/2007, 9:13 AM
i wouldn't recommend a 60w bulb. Remember, when vegas renders, we're trying to get RID of heat, not generate it. :)

I'd say just try to find some better cables.
riredale wrote on 5/31/2007, 10:25 AM
Or just leave the thing on. Your monitor can go into standby, right? I leave my computer on 24/7, though I also rationalize doing so because this room is usually cold. I'd guess that a typical PC with processor at idle is drawing maybe 150 watts.
TheHappyFriar wrote on 5/31/2007, 6:02 PM
screw standby: just shut the monitor OFF. :)

but when my computer was in a different part of the house, it was next to a light socket that let in a colddddd draft in the winter (cold enough to freeze water!). My computer ran nice & chilly then. :D

if it's on all the time you just need to make sure you get decent air circulation.