That's the ticket!

Jay? You is pure genius! - Luv it!

Grazie

I've used the Gearnex (with a Canon 5DMkII video setup & mattebox) and thought it was only marginally acceptable.

It is the only affordable gear head, so one has to cut it some slack (pun not intended, but that's exactly the issue).

OK for many, but it is not an ARRI head for less money.

Jay!

That's some head for a two pound camera...
and it's been soooo long since i cranked those wheels.

Of course the cameras we used in those days weighed 250 pounds. It took two men to move them onto the tripod head.

Thanks for the memories. And a good chuckle.

You're welcome! ;o)

"... it's been soooo long since i cranked those wheels."

Ah, what feeling that was. Nothing today compares to it.

Problem is finding a head for a 2 pound or less camera.

Tell us more, Are you only shooting on level surfaces, do you do a lot of panning, tilting, how fast to you need to change setups.

If you've got a flat floor 2 stage sticks with low level spreader and easy lock legs are really fast. If you want sticks that'll do everything then the Miller Solo is hard to beat. Just forget about their cheap heads, they're rubbish. Get a Satchler head and put it on Solo legs.

We run the very light HC5 camera on a Miller Compass 15 rig, hard to see the camera on that head but it doesn't wobble around. The EX1 with all it's bits works fine on lighter sticks and head.

Bob.

There should be a market for a gearhead that's optimized for cameras weighing less than 10 lbs. (not necessarily DSLRs).

To make it more cost-effective, it would probably be better to design it with electric motors rather than handcranks. Could potentially use inexpensive R/C transmitters with 2 joysticks.

This would save weight, and the slop could be minimized with separate auto-sensing miniature servos.

Vic, wouldn't that be a fab project for you?

You could use your experience to make it really good, and your name to boost the marketing.

Another thing to consider is the glass on the front. Do you what a 1800mm lens weighs (not to mention the rail system)!?

Those who can afford Canon's longest lenses (which go up to 5200 mm) can also afford a large gearhead

I see a gearhead that costs less than $1,000 and can handle more than 90% of shooting needs.

Bob -
No flat surface wheel arounds for me.

The gig that I'm preparing to shoot for is at the Sebring international raceway.

Having never been there, I'm assuming lots of quick shots in the shop (I love very high and very low angles), interviews in the stands and of course, long lens (400mm) grabs of our team on the speedway.

And I won't have an assistant to carry my gear, so it's got to be light. I've heard about the Solo legs before - I'll check them out.

For my cowboys documentary I used a Manfroto ART super fast set of legs, but they weigh about 18 pounds and I just don't need anything that heavy. But they sure did spring into action quickly. No adjusting of leg height at all. Open them up and poof - they automatically locked at the height you wanted. If they had a lightweight set like that, there would be no problem.

Actually, I'm going to give them a shot again, but maybe the solo's....
v

> I used a Manfroto ART super fast set of legs . . . No adjusting of leg height at all. Open them up and poof - they automatically locked at the height you wanted.

Vic, I have SOLO legs, and reading your experience of the Frottie I'm not sure Bob's recommendation would get you what you want. The Solo's independent leg working and locking nut on the legs could be counter to what I think you are used to with the Frottie?

You really need to "Try B4 U Buy!" And then some . . . For my requirements they are great. Being carbon fibre they are light. However, the indie working of the legs might require you need more ground space area to adjust, than you are used to.

Now, having said ALL that, if you can get along with them for what you want, they are amazing. I've been able to get a level, bubbled horizon in the most awkward of situs with 2 legs on floor and one sticking out against a rock!

Now that I have had Miller refurb my head it is working well. But it ain't a Sachtler . . . ..

Grazie

Just got back from a shoot using a Solo with a DS20 head.
Yes, you have to do a lot of adjusting compared to some other stick designs as the leg locking system is much the same as that used on boom poles and the old mic stands, lots of turns to loosen and tighten.
On the other hand the good feature of the Solo legs has let me put the camera in places not other tripod would let me because you can angle the legs out to almost horizontal e.g. rest one leg on the top of a safety barrier and the other two on the ground.

Bob.

The Solo is my tripod, which I use also for the Canon 5D. The Miller DS10 head isn't as smooth as I'd like, so I've followed your pointer to look at the Sachtler FSB8. Looks good but I'm curious about their technology -- no fluid, frictionless, etc. Any ideas? I suppose if it works, that's enough.

" Looks good but I'm curious about their technology -- no fluid, frictionless, etc. Any ideas"

As far as I know the Sachtler heads are fluid damped. The fluid capsule is claimed to be leak proof and can be replaced by the user. The FSB8 offers adjustable counterbalance and 5 stages of pan and tilt drag. You get an illuminated bubble.

The lightest weight head that Miller have with those features is the Compass 15. I've tried that head with an EX3 and on the lowest counterbalance setting it will not counterbalance. By this I mean with zero drag setting it will not hold a tilt position beyond around 30deg.

The smaller Miller heads do not have much adjustment at all. The drag controls are very primitive and prone to failure. The tilt and pan locks cause the position to shift as they're released, not good.

Bob.