Rechargeable Batteries can be good when..

Julius_911 wrote on 10/13/2004, 12:00 PM
I'm usually the one learning on this site, but after reading a few messages on bad rechargeable batteries maybe I can finally have some valuable input.

When using a wireless system, agreed that nothing beats a good 9v battery for long durability...however I did some research because these batteries were costing me a fortune.
There are different types of rechargeable batteries, and buying the wrong one will certainly cause you grief. You can't just buy the ones at radio shack.
You must make sure that the output is really 9V..usually this is displayed on the package. The mah is also important and you need 200mah...

I bought a pair of true 9v 200mah rechargeable batteries at about $20 each for weddings and I'm so glad I did. I don't know how long the batteries last but I do know that I have the batteries on for 1.5 hours straight for 2 straight weddings (that's almost 3 hours) before I recharge them.

Here's moe info on the topic from another site. (I hope it helps out some people out there like it did for me)
http://vf.forumexperts.com/bforum.mv?forum=100&module=view&viewid=5303&action=normal&data=5303&mode=com&row=2

BTW, one of the considerations with so-called 9 volt NiMH or NiCd batteries is the operational voltage. NiMH and NiCd chemisties produce 1.2 volts per cell. When you stack the cells in series, you will get 8.4 volts with a seven-cell stack and 9.6 volts with an eight-cell stack. (By comparison, alkaline, carbon-zinc, and lead-acid battery chemistries are 1.5 volts per cell. A stack of six cells in series makes for a nice even 9 volt battery.)

Make sure the 170 mAh and 260 mAh batteries you are comparing are both the same actual output voltage. The 260 mAh battery might actually be a stack of six for 8.4 volts, verses a stack of seven in the 170 mAh battery for 9.6 volts.

It seems logical that you will end up with a stack of slightly smaller cells to cram eight in the same package size compared to cramming seven cells in the same space. The larger cells may have a greater mAh capacity than the smaller ones, which may explain the difference between 260 mAh and 170 mAh.

Make sure your voltage is right. I think 9.6 volts is important. You might have operational problems if the actual operatonal voltage is only 8.4 volts.


Comments

Spot|DSE wrote on 10/13/2004, 12:45 PM
Good info, but it should also be said that Audio Technica and Shure will void the warranty if you use rechargeables.
johnmeyer wrote on 10/13/2004, 12:53 PM
You are correct on all points.

When to use rechargeables?

1. Obviously, when you have a frequently used device. Saves money, saves having to change batteries (if battery can be charge inside the device, like a cell phone).

2. When you need a big current draw. If you've ever taken a basic electronics course, the first thing you learn about is Ohm's law. Voltage = Current x Resistance. The usual analogy is a water tank: Voltage is water pressure, current is the water flow, and resistance is the size of the pipe. The chemistry of different batteries determines not only their voltage, but also how much current they can deliver at that rated voltage. With some battery technology, if you try to pull a lot of current out of them, the chemicals just can't combine fast enough to deliver all the current, and the voltage drops. Thus, if you try to use alkaline batteries in a digital still camera, which requires LOTS of current, you may only get a few pictures before the battery seems to give up. However, if you measure the voltage, you will find that the batteries still seem to be near the original 1.5 volts. However, the chemicals just couldn't combine fast enough to keep up. By contrast, NiCad and NiMh can deliver amazing amounts of current at their rated voltage. They are said to have a low internal resistance (i.e., a large "pipe"), but what this means is that the chemistry used in these cells just simply combines faster.

When NOT to use rechargeables.

1. When you have an INFREQUENTLY used device. This isn't just the opposite of number 1 in the previous section. There is another reason for this, and that is self-discharge. All batteries eventually lose their charge, but there is a HUGE difference in how quickly this happens. At one end of the specture are Lithium batteries (not to be confused with rechargeable lithium ion batteries). These can sit on the shelf for a decade and still retain most of their charge. Alkaline batteries have shelf lives measured in years. However, NiCad batteries self-discharge in a matter of a few months. If you haven't used the device for half a year, the batteries will probably be dead. NiMh (nickel metal hydride) are much, much worse -- the worst battery of all -- when it comes to shelf life. Many of them will lose almost half their charge in the space of a month. No big deal for a laptop that stays connected except when you are travelling, but a big bummer if you put them in a calculator that you only use once in awhile.

2. Long use before quitting. In a few applications, non-rechargeables will seem to quit before their rechargeable counterparts (see #2 in the first section). However, in reality the rechargeable battery of the same physical size always has less total energy and therefore, unless you run into the current problem with a device that requires huge amounts of current (see #2 in the first section), the non-rechargeable will always outlast a new, fully charged rechargeable. Thus, in a wireless mic application, where you don't want the thing dying in the middle of a shoot, you should always use fresh, non-rechargeabel batteries.
farss wrote on 10/13/2004, 5:37 PM
John,
many good points there. I actually build battery systems as a sideline, surprisingly enough I sell a lot of Sealed Lead Acid batteries for powering cameras!
Sound bizarre in this day and age but for long shoots with a static location (sporting events etc) these things are ideal. They're cheap as chips and easy to charge properly. I sell a battery and charger combo for under $300 that'll run a Sony 300 for as long as the Sony Li-Ion battery costing $1,200. With the Sony battery add $2,500 for a charger!
The one trap with batteries that you didn't mention is the End of Life voltage. The larger Sony cameras that use a nominal 12 V Li-Ion battery actually use a 14.4 volt battery and the camera treats the battery as flat at 11.2 Volts. At this voltage a lead acid battery is only at 50% capacity. Most clients don't see this as an issue, they just buy more of my cheap batteries however the problem can be solved with DC - DC converters.
Personally I cannot see why anyone thinks 9V batteries are expensive in wireless mics, the tape in the camera is costing you more. Try to buy them at trade, we buy Duracell Industrials by the box , much cheaper than retail.
If you do use any form of rechargeable battery how well it performs and how long it will last depends very much on the quality of the charging device as much as anything. For example SLA chargers of the cheaper variety are either constant voltage or constant current with voltage triggered shutdown. The charger I sell uses a correct three stage charging design, we're getting over 5 year service life out of our Hawker Energy SLAs.

Be VERY careful charging Li-Ion, use only the battery manufacturers supplied chargers and remember you cannot take the larger Li-Ion batteries onto aircraft, I think Sony have a new battery that meets FAA specs though.

Bob.