Possibly push into the socket, then a small turn counter-clockwise, then the tabs will release and it can be pulled out. Possibly.

Pretty much that's it. I remember replacing them in the 16mm projector at school which was 40 years ago.
Give it a push and a wiggle, it may have gotten stuck a bit. Then push down and twist. Yes, really hard to to as there's little room to get a good grip on the glass.

Don't worry too much about breaking the lamp. The only risk is to yourself, I mean there is quite a risk of getting badly cut so put your own safety first.

I remember I had one lamp that had melted and got itself jammed, impossible to remove. For safety I put a rag over it and smashed it with a small hammer and a piece of metal. Then pulled all the bits of glass and debris out. Then I got a long large flat bladed screwdriver and with a few small whacks with the hammer jammed it into the brass base. Then I could get enough leverage to twist the base in the socket to unlatch it and extract it.

Bob.

Thanks guys! The push-and-twist worked. Unfortunately, I discovered that the bulb is not in good shape:


So, I think I'd like to follow johnmeyer's suggestion of getting an LED replacement. However, after about an hour of Googling, I can't seem to find any LED replacement bulbs (maybe there aren't any or maybe I just haven't been using the proper seach criteria).

Can anyone offer a recommendation? Here's the specs:

DDB/DDW, Incandescent Projection, 16mm Projection
Wattage: 750W, 750 Watt, 750Watts
Voltage: 115-125V, 120 Volt, 120 Volts
Base: Medium Pf/P28, Medium Prefocus, Med. Pref., P28/25
Burn Position: BD, Burn Base Down, Operate only Vertical, Base Down
Filament: C13D, C-13D
Glass: T12, T-12, T12H, Tubular 1.5" in Diameter, Clear with Opaque Top
Average Life: DDB 25 Hours (DDW 10 Hours, DDY 200 Hours)
Lumens: 19500, 19,500
Color Temperature: 3250K, 3250°K Kelvin
Maximum Overall Length: MOL 5.75", 146mm
Light Center Length: LCL 2.188"

...Jerry

If you replace it with another filament lamp, make sure the glass is immaculately clean and use cotton gloves to install it.

The bubble you pointed out is often caused by fingerprints, which cause glass fatigue when heated to high temperatures.

That brings back memories. That's what had happened to the lamp that I had to smash to get out althought ours had expanded so much it was impossible to turn it!

I doubt it has anything to do with fingerprints leaving oil on the glass, that's mostly an issue with quartz halogen lamps where the UV from the lamp causes the oil to go black raising the temperature of the already quite hot quartz body. What's happened with that lamp is the tungsten deposited on the inside of the lamp has caused the heating of the glass to the point where it is soft enough for the gas pressure to expand the glass.
The lamps we used to use had a gold top and never had this problem, it was only the cheaper one with the black top that had the problem. I suspect the gold in some way was interacting with the tungsten vapour and stopping it from ending up on the glass. Anyways when we went back to the more expensive lamps the problem went away.


You will not find a direct LED replacement for the lamp. You'll need to engineer a solution. Do you wish to use the projector to transfer the film or to watch it?

Bob.

"Do you wish to use the projector to transfer the film or to watch it?"I was hoping to re-capture my footage per the johnmeyer's instructions back in the reference thread: OT: Super 8 Sound editing However, I'm still on the fence re: doing it myself vs. sending the footage to a professional transfer firm. Main point of decision is whether dealing with this old projector will be too much of a PITA. I have 10 400 ft reels.

...Jerry

The bulb is available from Interlamp Co. at www.interlamp.biz for $11.49 US (may be an old catalog} Get 2.

Best, Ralph

'The bulb is available from Interlamp Co. at www.interlamp.biz for $11.49 US (may be an old catalog} Get 2."Ralph, help me with this... www.interlamp.biz doesn't seem to exist. www.interlamp.com is in Argentina, and I can't seem to find projector bulbs.

Also, are you refering to an LED replacement or a direct replacement?

...Jerry

There's not much that can go wrong with a projector, that's the joy of the technology from that era. Obviously some of it was better built than others.

There's several reasons for swapping the light source. If the film gets stuck in the gate there's a real risk of it being melted by the heat from the lamp. As you're only looking to project onto a small screen you don't need that much light anyway, you could even use a lower wattage lamp.
When we were using the Elmo telecines I made a pretty simple mod to them to feed filtered air from an old nebulizer air pump into the gate. That helped to cool the film and the lamp and blow flakes of crud out of the gate.

You are probably going to have issues using anything but the original lamp part. How well you can deal with them depends on your skill with metalwork and basic electronics.

Personally I've got a number of old 8mm and 16mm projectors that one day, maybe, I'll find the time to build my own 8 and 16mm film scanners using the parts from them. The concept is fairly simple, put a diffused light source behind the film and use a high res camera with a macro lens to take an image from each frame, one at a time. There's a good example of how to do this including the parts needed on the web. The big question is, is it worth the trouble when for much less cost you could pay someone with the right gear to do it. For me the project would only be viable for personal satisfaction.

Bob.

Perhaps email http://www.paulivester.com/films/projector/proj.htmPaul's Film Stuff[/link] to discover a source of lamps for your projector. Rather looks like the same lamp that was used in the B&H Filmsound series of 16mm projectors (750W 115v) and I have a couple of those lamps in my "might be useful" box. However if you are wanting to build a film scanner, you won't want a 750W lamp behind the film. You will want to remove most of the lamp housing and install a diffuse source (as mentioned by Bob). To turn a projector into a step printer you don't want the motor either. If you use John's method you can keep the motor but remove the shutter. So unless you're just going to shoot the projected film (in which case you need a lamp) you will have a bit of work to do.

Sorry, my bad. It should have been www.interlight.biz. I have purchased bulbs from them on a number of occassions, and their prices are good.

Best, Ralph

As I suggested in another post, bulbster.com has all these bulbs. You can get a direct replacement, but 750 watts is way more light and heat than I'd want to use for film transfer. Take a look at this 125 watt version:

Eiko 125T10P 03666 Light Bulb



I think it might work, if you want to use this projector.

As for doing it yourself vs. doing it at a service, find a reel of film, do it yourself and then send it to a service. Compare and decide.

Just last weekend I saw a Keystone 16mm sound projector (model unknown) at an estate sale with 3-4 spare bulbs, and passed it up (it was $15 iirc) . . .

Okay, I ordered one of the Eiko 125W bulbs.

Thanks to all for the advice - once the bulb arrives & I have a few days for setup, tinkering, capturing & rendering, I'll post my results back here.

...Jerry

Well, I have not yet received the new projector bulb, but I did get the johnmeyer/Didée AviSynth script to work. I know I have to recapture because of focus & other issues, but here's a sample of the results of this amazing script: White Sands New Mexico 1949 .

...Jerry

That script's ability to nail the flicker is amazing.

If you DO decide to use it, rather than re-capture, make sure to tinker with the "frate" parameter until you eliminate as many blends as possible, but without starting to drop fields. Also, you can control the playback speed of the resulting video by putting an

AssumeFPS(18)

or

AssumeFPS(16)

statement at the end of the script (where 18 fps and 16 fps are the two most common speeds for amateur silent film).

[edit]P.S. If you want to research other ideas for doing this yourself, then use the following search terms, either using Google, or YouTube (they have lots of tutorial):

DIY telecine

Not to hijack the thread, but speaking of film projectors (and LED lamps) here's an interesting home made projector...

"Not to hijack the thread, but speaking of film projectors (and LED lamps) here's an Hawaii Five-O ???

...Jerry

First, my caveat - I almost always render to the same framerate as my source media, let alone mixing oddball framerates.

The AviSynth script referenced above produces a media file with a framerate of 17.36 fps. When rendered out at 17.36 fps, the render looks great. However, in my comparison video, White Sands New Mexico 1949 (now fixed), which compared my original 29.97 fps source with the "fixed" 17.36 fps render, I was disturbed by the comparison image:


Now, this may be common knowledge to forum participants, but the apparent solution to this problem is to "disable resample" on the 17.26 fps clip and render out the project as 29.97 fps. Here's the same frame.


I'm posting this in case, others have a similar problem. Or, if others have a better solution, I'd love to hear it.

...Jerry

The first issue I'd consider is what should the frame rate be?
If your film was 8mm then it was probably 18fps.
If 16mm then almost certainly 24fps.
I haven't looked at the script but if it's giving you an output with roughly 18fps it's probably written for processing 8mm not 16mm. I'd get that sorted out first.

Resampling means Vegas will create tween frames by simply blending them. Disabling it means Vegas will use the nearest available source frame as the current frame. That'll preserve the original cadence to some extent i.e. the original judder of say 8mm. Visually though resampling may produce an outcome that's more visually pleasing. If you want to get the best possible outcome some form of motion vector retiming could produce a much smoother motion. Others would argue that looses part of the original feeling of the film.
In your case though I'd address the underlying question of what the frame rate should before worrying about anything else.

Bob.

"The first issue I'd consider is what should the frame rate be?"Please refer to the johnmeyer post several posts up - he suggests the best way to elimate the flicker is to trial-and-error the framerate in the AviSynth script.

I'd love to be able to set this projector at a constant 24fps, but unfortunately it has a variable speed motor on it and I merely have to eyeball what looks close. Any idea how I might be more accurate?

All this discussion is making me lean toward a professional re-capture, but I'll keep experimenting.

...Jerry

Jerry,

You can, with a few choice expletives, a soldering gun and some pieces from a lamp parts supplier, connect and mount a candelabra bulb socket in the salvaged base of the original bulb. This allows you to use the round, frosted 25 - 60 watt bulbs that sell for a dollar or so.

This assumes you're using a lens or mirror-lens assembly to focus on the backlighted film rather than projecting it.

RalphM