Best output from HDV 1080 50i to TV USB port

ushere wrote on 11/16/2014, 3:11 AM

mp4 - there was a recent thread regarding this.....

Steve8 wrote on 11/16/2014, 3:12 AM

i ll try to find it on search.
Thank you

Steve8 wrote on 11/16/2014, 3:17 AM

I can't find it...

PeterDuke wrote on 11/16/2014, 4:29 AM

HDV is MPEG2 video in an MPEG2 transport stream container. If the TV accepts files with .ts suffix, just rename the suffix and use as is.

If not, you could just convert the transport stream to a program stream container, leaving the video and audio streams unchanged. Various programs will do this. I normally use VideoReDo, but I think AVIdemux will do it and it is free. The video will then have a .mpg suffix or similar.

Steve8 wrote on 11/16/2014, 5:17 AM

ùHallo Peter, first of all let me thank you! Now i'll try to test what you suugeted above. YOu mean to change the extension m2t in ts?

ushere wrote on 11/16/2014, 5:34 AM

sorry, wasn't exactly what you asked (it was my op), but might be of interest:

http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/forums/ShowMessage.asp?Forum=4&MessageID=905514

Steve8 wrote on 11/16/2014, 5:50 AM

Just tryed to change the suffix in ts but my Plasma Panasonic 3d couldn't read it!

musicvid10 wrote on 11/16/2014, 7:10 AM

BluRay.

Steve8 wrote on 11/16/2014, 7:41 AM

On my Samsung 3d reader the BR i burnt with DVDARCH doesn't let me hit the pause button.....

OldSmoke wrote on 11/16/2014, 9:22 AM

Did you enable the pause button in DVDA? You can control all the buttons in DVDA.

Steve8 wrote on 11/16/2014, 9:24 AM

I rendered with DVDARCH a normal dvd 720x576 and no issues at all...
Where is this function to enable?
Thank you for the head up

OldSmoke wrote on 11/16/2014, 11:03 AM

It is on the right side.

Are you using DVDA 6 or 5.2? If 6, it might be one of the bugs that 6 has over 5.2 but I am not sure.

john_dennis wrote on 11/16/2014, 1:52 PM

I seem to have more consistent positive results with the .m2ts wrapper with my devices that play from USB.

VideoReDo is a very good (paid) option. It can wrap HDV (.M2T) encoded files to MPEG-2 transport Stream (.ts or m2ts). Just tried it and my devices play the .m2ts files just fine.

My quick pass at AviDemux produced an output file in a .ts wrapper that didn't work on my Sony TV USB input. Using tsMuxer to wrap the .ts into an .m2ts wrapper played fine.

[I]tsMuxer will not accept the .M2T files produced by Vegas but it will accept the same file if the extension is changed from .M2T to .ts which might make the use of AviDemux unnecessary.[/I]

PeterDuke wrote on 11/16/2014, 7:05 PM

I tried processing some .m2t HDV files to .ts with VideoRedo. In each case VideoReDo reported presentation time stamp (PTS) underflows, and the output file was two frames shorter (clipped off the start). MediaInfo reported the overall file length much greater, but the stream lengths about right.

(Sighhhh....)

The original file also had a so-called menu stream which was stripped off by VideoRedo.

The video was originally captured with HDVSplit.

Post Script

When using VideoReDo to convert to a program stream (.mpg), the same result occurred (first two frames missing).

PeterDuke wrote on 11/17/2014, 1:46 AM

I tried converting a HDV (.m2t) file to a program stream using AVIDemux.

The video was now missing two frames at the start and the end.

The audio was now missing the equivalent of about a further 12 frames at the start and about 1 at the end. (The audio and video were out of sync by these12 frames.)

(Double Sighhhh...)

PeterDuke wrote on 11/17/2014, 2:05 AM

"I seem to have more consistent positive results with the .m2ts wrapper with my devices that play from USB."

I understand that the extra 4 byte timestamp in each packet of .m2ts (BDAV) files, compared to normal .ts MPEG2 transport stream files, is to aid playback performance.

GeeBax wrote on 11/17/2014, 2:09 AM

Already mentioned by ushere is mp4. Use the free Handbrake program to transcode your material to an mp4 file and you will find most television receivers with a USB connection will recognise it.

PeterDuke wrote on 11/17/2014, 2:47 AM

Yes, maybe less pain, but the OP asked for "best quality" and you can't get better than no transcoding. He is starting with MPEG2 as HDV and Handbrake would transcode to MPEG4 AVC as MP4.

ushere wrote on 11/17/2014, 5:04 AM

'best quality' - at the end of the day, i doubt whether the average viewer would see the difference between high bitrate mp4 and any other codec.

i think we've become a society obsessed with pixel peeking and megapixel counts.

if it's worth watching people will watch it, even if it's vhs quality...

puts me in mind of the 60/70's with hi-fi fanatics comparing shure vs ortofon stylus's, or kef vs b&w speakers or whatever.

jefferson airplane sound out of this world on my transistor radio and earpiece. and i went to many a long night party where everyone sat around the dansetet record player listening to dylan lp's....

content is king and always will be.

[/r]

PeterDuke wrote on 11/17/2014, 5:16 PM

Horses for courses. One's priorities are likely to be different in a business compared to a hobby.

I only watch TV programs with content that interests me, but it seldom rivets my attention to the point that I don't notice the defects in the picture.

It goes against the grain for me to re-encode when it is not technically necessary. My current Holy Grail is a way to view 1080/50p video with menus on my TV. I don't want to convert to 1080/50i or 720/50p.

I remember years ago, during the vented enclosure obsession era (pre-stereo), someone converted his old fireplace and chimney into a speaker enclosure. He said, "When the HiFi bug bites you, you have to submit."

ushere wrote on 11/17/2014, 6:07 PM

reminds me also of the 'hi-fi' freaks who used large concrete sewer pipes for speakers...

thought i'd see if i could find any, but hey, the idea's evolved:

http://juliusgrill.com/latest/concrete-hi-fi-2

PeterDuke wrote on 11/17/2014, 11:54 PM

The only technical comment given is "nice punchy bass". That would be a function of the bass driver loudspeaker, and restricting the air flow between front and rear of the cone without making the enclosed volume too small. A timber enclosure would do just as well for that. (I presume that no-one uses vents or sympathetic resonators these days.)

I would think that the whole point of using a concrete pipe would be to greatly reduce the natural vibrations of the enclosure and the colouration that would give to the frequency response (or impulse response). If you knock your knuckles on a timber enclosure, you are likely to hear a "bong" with significant decay time, whereas a concrete enclosure would produce a quieter "clunk" with very short decay time (and blood on your knuckles).

OK, on looking again, perhaps the only motive is to use the speakers outdoors. The enclosures may withstand the weather, but the loudspeaker cones would not, without added protection. What would that do to the mid to high frequency performance? As the guy said, "a nice punchy bass".