If you had $10,000 to spend on a general use set-up. Camera, tripod, wireless mic, and lights. What would you buy? Emphasis on the cam and tripod.
Thank you.
Are you trying to get ideas because you have 10K to spend?
What type of Video Production do you do?
What equipment do you have that does NOT do its job anymore?
- I think most people would spend the 10K on things they don't necessarily need but more-so want.
- I feel the money would be spent on things that would not be an integral part of them making their money back but more-so on new 'toys'.
- I think an established business that is already delivering product would use very little of the 10K but an inexperienced business owner or hobbyist would blow through 10K and have nothing but pretty/new equipment sitting on a shelf adding no benefit to his/her business except for 10K worth of equipment that will soon be worth 8K... 6K... 4K... and depreciating.
Often times I think Education would be the best investment. Learn to use what you've got to get the best results. I've delivered numerous SD projects shot on DV to clients who started out asking for HD... that were more satisfied with my deliverables than what they got from the 'HD Guy' down the street, simply because I know my old equipment like the back of my hand.
If you've got 10K to spend... I'd say DON'T spend it until you take a good look at what you've already got. I bet you've already got all that you NEED.
While experienced producers (Xenon is mentioned) should be used to keep the
attraction fresh and profitable, I think the request is more of curiosity.
$20K worth of equipment used by high school students (don't get me wrong
I love working with youth) to produce a show will still need polishing.
Rich R - even if you just make interactive kiosk videos for the museum, do it!
If you can work getting $10K funding, do it!
Keep asking questions here even if you don't get the answers you expected.
Good tripod, good lights. I love the units from K5600 but they are expenive, worth the money though. The 200W Joker Bug is great, can be run from batteries. Kit comes with soft boxes. You can add tubes for hard to light places. You'll get many decades of use out of good tripods, lights and mics.
Bob.
This lighting set. With it you can go from here to the moon and back (with some modifications depending on the shoot). It's a basic "starter" package on any production i shoot so at some point it's silly to give about $300/day to some rental place if you can own and it will pay for itself in about 12 shooting days.
2x 300w
2x 650w
1x 1k w
1x 2k w
4x 40� C-stand
2x 20� C-stand
8x 25lb sandbag
1x heavy duty arm
2x 24x36� flag
2x 18x24� flag
2x 4x4' floppy
1x open frame
6x6 frame with light grid
2x 1k dimmer
1x cart
gripollogy
2x applebox set
You're the rare guy to spec 25 lb. sandbags for the C-stands.
I do it too, perhaps because I was brought up to keep an eye out for liability problems,
I'm also a fan of C+stands. Recent invention, not much more money, great to work with,
Just a note for those who are thinking of purchasing this kit: make sure you have enough electricity for it. No problem in an office, but especially many older U.S. homes have very few amps available, and in those that do, you may need a bunch of 50 ft. stingers ("extension cords").
All I can say is that's what you get for using tungsten lights!
I guess you guys are still using carbon mics.
Not only does just about every other kind of light source produce 3x to 4x the amount of light per amp as read by a light meter, your camera gains nearly 1 stop of sensitivity.
Sure tungsten lights cost the least. When you add up all the ancillary costs they're not that cheap overall. When you can replace a 500W light with a 100W one you need less amps, you have less weight, less heat and lamps that don't blow every time you look sideways at them. That means lighter stands, thinner stingers, probably don't need all those shot bags either.
"Oooouuuch. One 12 amp fuse for the whole house." Double Oooouuuch! A little off topic, but excellent points by Pat and Coursedesign reminded me about having your own power generation unit(20K-25k) with "extra muffling" if you do outside or a lot mobile work, built in a nice mobile trailer or older van. ;-)
farss, there is more to it then just what you describing. In tungsten lights you get a fire inside the bulb thus psychologically they are the closest to natural source of light - fire. On top of that no Kino will ever give the same kind of warmth that comes from within the person as you get a cool light that gives off no feeling. I use HMIs and Kinos all the time but 1. they are not the first light i pull out; 2. for the purpose of investing in your own set they are more expensive then they need to be; 3. They are never ever exactly 3.2k.
"In tungsten lights you get a fire inside the bulb thus psychologically they are the closest to natural source of light - fire. "
The largest, most common and natural source of light is the sun, surely. There's a 'fire' inside HMI lamps as well and it's much closer to the one that lights our planet and grows everything we eat than any piece of electrically heated wire.
If you look around on the net you'll find a small industry built on the premise that anything other than daylight is unhealthy. I don't believe it myself however whenever I'm in a room with tungsten light the place feels dank, like I'm in a cave.
Certainly you have to choose your daylight light sources, especially if you're shooting film. Some have a horrid CRI but the better ones are over 90, the best are up to 95 from memory. If you're using the 3,200K HMIs indeed they're of varying CT looking at the specs. We only use the 5,400K ones. All our light sources are 'daylight', we can retube some of them to tungsten and the Z90s at the push of a button but no one has asked for tungsten in the last two years. Better yet we haven't replaced a lamp in that time either.
When it comes down to it:
- The light reflected off objects will depend on the spectral power distribution of the light hitting it. Different types of lights have different SPDs, so the relative colors of objects will differ somewhat between different kinds of lighting (metamerism). In practice this is usually not a big deal since we aren't that sensitive to this kind of color inaccuracy (metamerism occurs naturally anyways).
Where metamerism is a problem is when black objects don't appear black, e.g. due to infrared contamination. Or we might see it with fluorescent objects, or white materials which have fluorescent dyes added to make them appear whiter.
- You usually want lighting of a consistent color temperature. This comes down to the relative balance of R:G:B. Unfortunately the lighting manufacturers don't make this easy to figure out. Simplistic cinematographers' rules work well enough though (you know what needs gelling).
- Effect of light on humans:
Humans will tend to be warmer more under tungsten.
We need some UV light to produce vitamin D. (Unless we eat enough of it??)
Some UV light can cause skin damage/cancer. A HMI used the wrong way can do this.
Lighting affects our sleep cycles. There might be other effects.