OT: 4' Camera Slider - Buy or Build

Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 8:34 AM


This midrange pro slider is sold for $650.00 including the Mitchell plate, but without the Mitchell to 100 mm or 75 mm whatever adapter.

Seems easy enough to make yourself, but check out the video where he talks about how the polyurethane wheels, unlike skateboard wheels, won't wear out:



It should be possible to get these wheels separately, anyone know what they're used for originally?


[I have no connection with CinemaGadgets, just thought this was a useful tool for solving a current shooting problem where a dolly/jib wouldn't work well (it's closer to a tabletop shoot).]

Comments

mtntvguy wrote on 2/15/2010, 8:43 AM
I recently purchased the 3' version of this one http://www.westsideav.com/Sliders/index.html

It really works well. Nice, smooth camera moves. I think it was just over three hundred bucks.
TimTyler wrote on 2/15/2010, 8:48 AM
There's nothing wrong with that device, but it's more of mini-dolly than a slider.

Sliders typically mount on a single sturdy tripod and pack-up in a small case. Sliders also provide a secure mount that the camera will not fall off of.
Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 8:58 AM
They also sell the sliders you're talking about, alas at a cost of $3,500-$6,500.

That's why I said "midrange" here, i.e. for someone with pro needs without the mega budget.
Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 9:05 AM
Mtntvguy's Igus type slider linked above is the other design, with the track on one or two tripods (or tripod+monopod!).

For my needs, that might be even better, as long as I can get a Sony V-mount for it.
TimTyler wrote on 2/15/2010, 9:27 AM
In my camera support experience, you get what you pay for. A $4000 fluid head is worth every penny if shooting is your business.

With a slider, you want it to be perfectly smooth. You want it to be easy to ramp up the movement and ramp it back down again. You don't want it to be flexible at all.

Here are some slider suggestions:

http://www.walterklassen.com/sidestep.htm

http://www.theslider.com/

http://www.t-jib.com/products2.asp
Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 10:04 AM
Thanks for those suggestions!

The Slider is (somewhat) local here, and they rent them by the day or week.

I am using a $4K fluid head, although I bought it refurbed for a lot less.

The table top shots that I need to do asap, I'll only need to repeat a few times this year.
So I don't want to blow a ton of money on it..

If the $350 slider can do a good job on a table top (which is easier than a floor dolly slider shot), I'd save a chunk of money and hassle.

(Don't forget the P+S Technik Skater, which is more compact and quicker to set up than the sliders, although it can't make repeatable tracks and it also costs a bundle.)
goshep wrote on 2/15/2010, 10:14 AM
You could build that rig yourself in a weekend (with some minor modifications if welding isn't an option for you). I don't know of any skateboard wheels that AREN'T 100% polyurethane. Even if they aren't, how fast are they going to wear in an application like this? You'd likely replace a few cameras before you had to replace the wheels.
Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 12:24 PM
Yes, good point for desktop work where the load is so much smaller than a floor track dolly.

I've done both gas and electric welding, but I don't have a setup nowadays, and I haven't had a weekend in a really long time...
craftech wrote on 2/15/2010, 12:36 PM
Bjorn,

Have you seen the DIY Homebuilt Stabilizers website?

John
Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 12:42 PM
John,

Thanks!

Yes, I saw this years ago but completely forgot about it.

The Plywood Skater could be the bee's knees for this, and I may have just thought up a way to make it with less effort.
farss wrote on 2/15/2010, 2:06 PM
Westside AV's sliders use the same basic linear bearings as everyone else uses. We resell some of Olaf's kit down here and he does a fine job of machining. The difference in what he charges for his sliders compared to what the base linear bearings cost makes his a bargain. Olaf can also make you a slider with a crank handle that drives a lead screw.

The trick with these sliders is to push the base, NOT the camera.

There are lower friction linear bearings available that use recirculating ball bearings. Be warned, they are zero friction. That sounds really attractive at first but might not be when you see your camera just keeping going, into the sunset :)

Bob.
JohnnyRoy wrote on 2/15/2010, 3:34 PM
You might want to look into the GlideTrack. It is built and sold by one of our own Vegas users Alistair Brown so you might want to help a fellow Vegas user out and support is new business. ;-)



(I have no affiliation with GlideTrack, I just know Alistair from the forum)

~jr
Zelkien69 wrote on 2/15/2010, 5:07 PM
My company picked up a Cinevate Pegasus after owning both the SD short and HD 3' model of the Glidetrack and all I can say is wow. I think it was just under $1000 and has proven to be worth every penny. The Glidetrack, while nice, was never consistently smooth. It was a mix of of jitters and awkward pressure points along the rail. I purchased the Glidetracks and the Pegasus new so impressions should be spot on.
An additional benefit of the carbon fiber Pegasus is that if you need something more substantial you can buy lengths of rail as long as you can carry. We purchased some 8' rods and with our stands, we get some incredible shots. The Glidetrack just didn't have the same flexibility.

enjoy.
Coursedesign wrote on 2/15/2010, 5:20 PM
I've been exchanging e-mails with Olof today, he said his current products can't handle the weight of my cameras setup, but he is busy machining a new product that can.

The Cinevate Pegasus seems like an extremely flexible product that can be used in so many ways, here's just two:







The Table Dolly is only $395.00, but it maxes out with a 12 lb. load which is less than half of my camera weight (stripped).