OT- M-Audio Delta 1010 Power Supply

Elizabeth Lowrey wrote on 11/24/2004, 10:25 AM

I seem to recall that a couple of folks on this board use the same sound setup I do, the M-Audio Delta 1010 card with breakout box. It's a long story as to why, but the initial power adapter/supply that came with my unit was not standard issue, and it eventually broke down and started causing a nasty hum in my system. The folks at M-Audio sent me a free replacement power supply (per product lifetime warranty) that worked great -- for about 18 months. Now I have the same hum I had before even though every other aspect of the card/breakout box is functioning perfectly.

In the meantime, the apparent reorganization/purchase of M-Audio by Avid has left no visible warranty or support center for this product. I can't find a single phone # that will get me to someone to help with acquiring another replacement power supply. So I'm hoping someone here using the 1010 can provide me with the following information from their power supply:

manufacturer name

model #

voltage rating

wattage rating

current rating

Thanks in advance for any help.

Comments

Bill Ravens wrote on 11/24/2004, 11:22 AM

FYI...

that hum is most likely caused by the failure of an internal capacitor used to level the waveform of the DC power output. If you can identify the failed capacitor, it's probably a $2.99 replacement part at Radio Shack, and you can replace it with a high quality cap that won't fail as fast.

Randy Brown wrote on 11/24/2004, 11:59 AM

Ah-ha I thought there was a lifetime warranty when I bought mine! Coincidentally I just found out from support that the warranty is only a year now and so figured I must have dreamed up the lifetime warranty. Anyway you can e-mail them at repairs@m-audio.com.
The specs on the adaptor is:
model: A60942DC
AC adaptor
Class 2 transformer
Input: 120VAC 60HZ 50W
Output: 9VAC 3500mA
Hope this helps,
Randy

farss wrote on 11/24/2004, 12:23 PM

If it really is 9V AC (NOT DC?) then there should be much in it to go wrong, it'd only be a transformer. If that's truly all it is then any 9V 3.5 Amp transformer would do, being AC you don't even have to worry about which way around to wire the plug.
Bob.

Randy Brown wrote on 11/24/2004, 12:39 PM

I don't know Bob, I just copied it straight off the thing. I forgot what you call them but it has the regular plug that goes into the outlet that leads to the large heavy adaptor and then another wire that plugs into the dad-burn thingamajig...does that answer your question?
Randy
Randy

Elizabeth Lowrey wrote on 11/24/2004, 1:07 PM

Randy,

That is exactly the same info that's on the replacement (current) adapter that they sent me after the initial one failed, including the "9VAC" part. Even the model # is the same. Mine also carries a manufacturer/name brand "ONTOP".

I appreciate the info very much. I wanted to make sure the replacement I've been using wasn't some spare part lying around that was never really meant for the 1010, because I'm thinking that two failures out of two adapters isn't a real good track record.

I'll see about getting a replacement with the same specs.

Thanks again.

Elizabeth

Elizabeth Lowrey wrote on 11/24/2004, 1:19 PM

Bill,

Thanks for the info.

When this happened the first time with exactly the same symptoms, I was able to speak to someone at M-Audio tech support, and he required me to send the whole unit and power supply in for testing. The breakout box was tested and was found completely up to spec. The problem was identified as the power adapter, and so they sent a replacement when they returned the breakout box. The unit performed as new after the switch.

I have no general expertise to conclude that it's the power supply again, only the fact that the gradual onset of the hum, the sound of it, and the other factors (like the fact that the unit works in all other respects, e.g., ADAT add-on, PCI card, MIDI port) are exactly the same as last time.

Also, don't know if this is relevant to your point, but the adapter actually outputs 9 volts AC. Any DC conversion must also be happening inside the box. See the discussion below, because I know farss also raised eyebrows about the AC thing.

farss wrote on 11/24/2004, 1:45 PM

If you know someone nearby thats handy with a soldering iron it'd be no drama to just buy a transformer and put it in your own box.
Bob.

That_Kid wrote on 11/24/2004, 4:53 PM

I can tell you that it's the caps in the breakout box. I've had my 2 delta's since they were first released and each time I get a hum I know it's time to replace the caps. The problem is the diodes and regulators get fairly warm and dry the caps out. My last time fixing one I moved the caps to the corner of the case, near their original location but away from most of the heat. So far so good and it's been over a year and a half and no problems. Also the adapter is 9 volts AC.

Elizabeth Lowrey wrote on 11/26/2004, 8:39 AM

That_Kid, it does sound like we're experiencing the same problem, but I'm wondering why mine was fixed the first time with only a new adapter/transformer.

Also, I had exactly two weeks of high school electronics before the teacher recruited me to be a student assistant and grade papers. So I never really learned anything about the subject and what little I did learn I've long ago forgotten.

If I decide to replace the capacitors as you and BillRavens have suggested, what exactly is involved? Is there a certain spec or rating on the replacements that I have to maintain? What do they even look like? Since they hold charges, can I get shocked if I'm poking around inside the case?

farss wrote on 11/26/2004, 12:12 PM

You sure want the power off while playing around in the case, not for risk to you but risk to the gear. 9V is pretty harmless but shorting it out could fry something.
Once you find the caps (cylindrical things, probably the biggest ones in the box) just check what's printed on them, something like 470uF 25V. You just buy ones with the same values, maybe you could try a slightly higher voltage version, if they fit that is, might last a bit longer. When you replace them make certain of the polarity, it should be marked on the PCB and the caps so not that hard to get right.

If they're dying I'd try to get better quality ones, typically you can get one rated at 85 degC and ones at 125degC, the higher temperature speced ones are typically much better quality. If you're lucky you might even find some mil spec ones.

Bob.

Elizabeth Lowrey wrote on 11/26/2004, 8:46 PM

Okay, I'm going to venture a try on this tomorrow and I hope it's as easy as you guys make it sound.:-) Thanks to Bob and everyone else who responded.

Elizabeth

That_Kid wrote on 11/26/2004, 9:32 PM

You shouldn't have much problems as long as your solder skills are decent, the thing is you have to take out just about every screw in the unit to get the job done. If you have extra screws at the end, go back and double check everything. You really want to have the unit unplugged while working on it, actually you really don't have much of a choice as the whole lower pcb has to come out. I'm not sure where you are located at but I was able to goto radio shack and pick up the caps I needed. From what I've seen only one cap goes bad but I replace them both just to be on the safe side. When looking at the unit from the front, the caps you want to replace will be the two biggest ones in the left rear, near a bank of diodes(black cylindrical opkects with a stripe at one end). take note of the polarity when you take the old ones out and put the new ones in.