XLR converter for FX1 equvqlent to internal in Z1

mhbstevens wrote on 12/1/2004, 11:10 AM
After being tempted by Mr. farss to upgrade my wish-list from the FX1 to the Z1 I am footing the additional costs associated with the FX1, like the need for a charger and an XLR converter box. So I am wondering what XLR converter box with Phantam power is of equivalent quality to give the FX1 sound equal to the Z1?

Mike S


farss wrote on 12/1/2004, 12:42 PM
Beachtek are one of many but about the best in my opinion. Here's why.
Phantom power, bolts underneath the camera, has screw and pin so camera cannot swivel when mounted on box, level controls on inputs, pretty solid build.
The only problem we've had with them is the large countersunk screw that holds it to the camera can pull through the box and the cable to the camera fails where it goes thru the cable clamp coming out of the box.
It's because of problems like these that make me really down on the use of minipin connectors on cameras. I guess if you own the camera and check your gear carefully on a regular basis it may be a bit different for you.
None of the XLR adaptors are cheap so factor in the cost of these when you campare the cost of the two cameras.
rextilleon wrote on 12/1/2004, 12:47 PM
You might also look at Studio One adapters---I have had very good results.
mhbstevens wrote on 12/1/2004, 1:18 PM
Thanks Bob: The Beachtek recommended for the FX1 is the DXA-4 and with tax and shipping this is about $200. Add $150 for the charger and that's 30% towards the Z1.

Presumably the Beachtek adapters fir on to the tripod mount even thought hier website does not say that.

HPV wrote on 12/1/2004, 1:40 PM
You can't turn off the AGC on the FX1. Really limits your chance at getting good/great audio. I think lots of people will get the FX1 and use dat/solid state/laptops for audio needs. Hmmm, what are the audio recording options for $1200.00 ?? Laptop with 4 channels of input?

Craig H.
John_Cline wrote on 12/1/2004, 2:15 PM
Also, you can't adjust the level of each audio channel independently on the FX1.

John McCully wrote on 12/1/2004, 2:16 PM
I note above that mhbstevens tells us that the Beachtek DXA-4 is recommended for the FX1. Just this morning I ordered an FX1 and a Beachtek but I ordered the Beachtek DXA-6 as it appears to me that the DXA-4 does not provide phantom power while the DXA-6 does.
Spot|DSE wrote on 12/1/2004, 3:08 PM
One thing I strongly recommend any user of 3.5 mm connectors do, is to run to the nearest Radio Crap store and buy heat shrink. Beef up the area around the 90 degree angle on the cord, these always seem to fail just as you need them the most.
You can also open up a Beachtek and add shrink right where the cable goes into the box. Very helpful.
mhbstevens wrote on 12/1/2004, 4:20 PM
Sevente is right. Beachtek's site does recommend the DXA-4 for the FX1 but this is nonsence. You do need the DXA-6 to get Phantom power. So this makes my calculations even more close to getting a Z1.
farss wrote on 12/2/2004, 4:03 AM
And then factor in having to worry about the battery in the adaptor going flat, it'll probably run a mic for a long time, that is until you forget to turn it off. What I really don't like about any of these things is it's another piece of gear that can fail and you may not know about it until it's too late.
I'm not certain but I don't think the FX1 offers audio meters so you've got no visual indication that you're recording any audio. Certainly cans are an option but I've had a few cases of people wearing them and not noticeing they'd lost audio or it was badly distorted, I think you really need to get the brain focused on listening and that's hard if you're trying to chase a shot etc.
Now with the PD 170 (and I'd assume the Z1) you can leave one channel going to the on camera mic, not the best audio but if all else fails it'll do in a pinch, certainly it's better than no audio. You use the other channel for whatever, wireless mics, booms etc. Now with a camera with XLR inputs you also get audio metering, do you see a conjunction of factors here, your audio is less likely to fall over completely but you've got a simple way to check it anyway.

Perhaps one answer if you're really stuck without XLR inputs is one of those horrid Beachtek audio meter things that goes on the hotshoe, connected to the line out RCAs on the camera. Now these things seem useless for judging levels but they'll be good enough to show you if there's something there.