john_dennis wrote on 5/24/2012, 7:24 PM
I likely would not do it. If you do, you should get a panel that is 1920x1080. You're unlikely to find a device that has greater resolution in that class of products even though for that large a panel you could make use of greater resolution.

My son uses a 40" Sony TV for his computer monitor. He sits back away from it. My impression is that it is just o.k. as a computer monitor, not great.

All that said, I bought my daughter a 32" 1366x768 TV for her computer and it works out good for her. She has keratoconus and needs to have the screen larger than most people. The combination of 32" screen and fairly low native resolution means the text and images are just the right size without driving the panel at a non-native resolution.

My main system:
Motherboard: ASUS ProArt Z790-CREATOR WIFI
CPU: Intel Core i9-13900K - Core i9 13th Gen Raptor Lake 24-Core (8P+16E) P-core Base Frequency: 3.0 GHz E-core Base Frequency: 2.2 GHz LGA 1700 125W Intel UHD Graphics 770 Desktop Processor - BX8071513900K
GPU: Currently intel on-die video adapter
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 64GB (2 x 32GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5600 (PC5 44800) Desktop Memory Model CMK64GX5M2B5600C40
Disk O/S & Programs: WD Black SN850 NVMe SSD WDS100T1X0E - SSD - 1 TB - PCIe 4.0 x4 (NVMe)
Disk Active Projects: 1TB & 2TB WD BLACK SN750 NVMe Internal PCI Express 3.0 x4 Solid State Drives
Disk Other: WD Ultrastar/Hitachi Hard Drives: WDBBUR0080BNC-WRSN, HGST HUH728080ALE600, 724040ALE640, HDS3020BLA642
Case: LIAN LI PC-90 Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Case
CPU cooling: CORSAIR - iCUE H115i RGB PRO XT 280mm Radiator CPU Liquid Cooling System
Power supply: SeaSonic SS-750KM3 750W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Drive Bay: Kingwin KF-256-BK 2.5" and 3.5" Trayless Hot Swap Rack with USB 3
Sound card: Realtek S1220A on motherboard. Recording done on another system.
Primary Monitor: ASUS ProArt 31.5" 1440p HDR10 Monitor PA328QV
O/S: Windows 10 Pro 10.0.19045 Build 19045
Camera: Sony RX10 Model IV

Steve Mann wrote on 5/24/2012, 9:16 PM
You won't like it. Go into your local Best Buy and look at a 40" TV at the distance you would put it on your desktop. Take Tylenol then go buy a computer monitor.

Besides that it's impossible to calibrate a consumer LCD TV. At least with consumer LCD monitors you can get close to calibrated.
Grazie wrote on 5/24/2012, 11:57 PM
I do all my Timeline editing on a 32" LG. Anything larger would necessitate me acquiring another 2 feet onto my arms. For me this is about the max screen real estate for comfort. I then use a combo of my JVC CRT 15" and further, an almost there, 27" LG TV for calibration. It's not good for complete calibration, but this with my JVC Pro CRT gets an excellent final product that I and my clients like.


nedski wrote on 5/25/2012, 12:09 AM
I'm using a 42" JVC JLC42BC300, $500 from Costco. It has a CFL backlight. It does has RGB Gain and Offset adjustments, though I haven't seen the need to change them.

My Mark 1 eyeball says the color is acceptable. It looks somewhat better than my previous display, a 37" Westinghouse monitor I bought in 2005.

I sit about three feet away from it when I'm using the computer, I sit about seven feet away when using for viewing TV or HD or SD video discs.

I like it.

I guess if I had unlimited funds I would get a few 27" 2560 x 1440 monitors that are specifically made for color accuracy, until then I'm satisfied. YMMV ;-)
JJKizak wrote on 5/25/2012, 6:28 AM
The Sony XBR tv's can be calibrated although the calibration should be at regular intervals. They are usually right on the money out of the box.
FilmingPhotoGuy wrote on 5/25/2012, 8:38 AM
I've been using a 42" LG monitor as a PC screen for 5 years now. I also have a 23" Samsung full HD next to it as a preview screen. Sure I had to extend my desk backwards by 1/2 a meter but that was the cheapest of the whole excercise. I don't use my glasses much now LOL. You do need to have a good graphics adapter though to push to both monitors, Nvidia GTX 560 work fine for me.
RZ wrote on 5/25/2012, 10:10 AM
Thanks for all your input. What kind of connections would I need from the pc to the tv. Not all TV's have pc input.
RZ wrote on 5/25/2012, 11:36 AM
This is what I am thinking. Edit on a 24-27 inch monitor, Possibly dell ultra sharp and then preview on a 40" LCD possibly Samsung. Now what kind of connections/ graphic card do I need. Also what kind of specs do I look at in the tv since they don't al have pc input. Thanks a lot you wonderful people.

rraud wrote on 5/25/2012, 11:50 AM
"What kind of connections would I need from the pc to the tv. Not all TV's have pc input?"
-- Depends on what type of connections your PC, TV or secondary monitor and your graphic card(s) have available, For instance on my current set-up The graphics card has a VGA, composite video (RCA) and DVI. On my main (PC) monitor I use the VGA (usually a large blue multi-pin connector) On my secondary (TV) type monitor, I have available: Composite video (1 RCA), Component video (3-RCAs) HDMI and VGA. Since my graphic card doesn't have a HDMI out, I bought a DVI to HDMI adapter cable.
NOTE: I use the VGA on the main PC monitor because of multiple desktop PCs and a KVM switch so I only need to have a single keyboard, main monitor and mouse.
nedski wrote on 5/25/2012, 12:24 PM
"Thanks for all your input. What kind of connections would I need from the pc to the tv. Not all TV's have pc input."

I use inexpensive 3 or 5 meter DVI to HDMI cables. I have two PC's, a cable box and a Blu-Ray player connected. Each cable costs between $5 and $20 each from a major online retailer.

I tried the analog VGA "PC" input with an expensive VGA cable, the results were clearly inferior to the all digital connection. The simplest way to describe it is it's "fuzzy," stick to digital if you can.